Tastehunter

Spring has not quite sprung yet here in NYC, but I’ve already been hitting the pavement and interwebs with my styling clients’ needs in mind. Even if you aren’t planning on a complete wardrobe overhaul this Spring, transitional periods like now are great times to take a look at what you own and consider strategically adding a few items that will help you get the most out of what you have. With that in mind, below is my roundup of Spring 2012′s menswear trends, along with corresponding suggestions.

Trend #1 Old Hollywood

Clean, crisp and confident, the Old Hollywood trend is timeless. In many ways, it’s a nod to style icon Cary Grant, known for his simple block colors and classic style. Think white pants, double breasted tailored jackets or sportcoats. For both, make sure the fit is slim, and for the latter, also have it cut on the short side, just covering your seat. Look for white pants from designers like Simon Spurr, Hermes, DSquared2, and Ralph Lauren Black Label ($295) below.

Trend #2 Suburbia

Spring runways abounded with checks and plaids, frequently in silhouettes that had a 1950′s suburban feel. Think of it as what you might wear to a summer barbecue: gingham, camp shirts, polos and blazers. This blue and green check shirt below ($185) from Billy Reid is an easy example of how to rock this trend.

Trend #3 Urban Safari

Safari jackets were introduced as part of the British military’s tropical uniform. They’re lightweight for easy mobility and typically contain expandable front pockets. I like the safari jacket because with it, fashion goes hand-in-hand with function, as it can come in many materials and colors (usually neutral) and have additional details like contrast stitching and an attached waist belt. The gorgeous leather one below from Bottega Veneta ($8100) is a luxe example of this look — let’s hope those safari pockets are loaded with cash though because this jam does not come cheap! Of course, there are plenty of other styles out there that are friendlier on the wallet (see here and here). Other ways to incorporate safari style into your wardrobe are via linen fabrics and silk-blend shirts.

A word of caution: when choosing neutral jackets, try to choose a shade that’s flattering on our skin tone. Most of us look better in either cool tones (blue-based, like grey) or warm tones (yellow-based, like tan or olive).

Trend #4 Naval Academy

Brands like J. Crew and H&M presented collections with a maritime aesthetic, as seen in details like stripes, ribbed knits, blue/red/white color palettes, nautical prints, Bermuda shorts and Fisherman’s sweaters. This pocket square ($65) from Richard James is a peppy way to work the trend into dressier outfits.

I hope you found this trend report helpful and inspiring as you get your wardrobe in gear for Spring. As always, I welcome your comments and questions. And if any of these trends resonate with you, but you’re still not sure how to implement them, please contact me for more tailored help.

Runway photos courtesy of Fashion Snoops.

Happy (almost) Spring! Of course, one day’s sunny and sixty-five could be another day’s stormy and forty, so don’t forget to dress strategically. The key to successful Spring dressing is layers. Below are five tips on how to layer for everything from lion to lamb, along with my top picks for Spring layering pieces.

1) Wear thin combinations of layers, like a fine cashmere sweater, a Spring jacket, or a lightweight t-shirt. The more thin layers you wear, the more you can adjust to your comfort.

2) Consider the vest. From down to leather to suiting fabric, there’s a vest for every occasion. And remember, with a down vest, you can wear it over or under your suit/blazer.

3) Just because you’re not wearing your puffer doesn’t mean you can’t wear gloves and a scarf. I love the cool, nonchalant look of winter accessories on their own, without a heavy winter jacket.

4) For days where it’s too cold to wear your lightweight jacket but too warm to wear your heavy one, wear two lightweight jackets. Try a denim jacket beneath a one that’s cotton-twill or nylon.

5) This is pretty intuitive, but typically the easiest and most visually pleasing way to layer is to wear the lightest weight layer closest to your body, going thicker as you move away from it.

And here are just a few of my Spring layering picks…

Lightweight Jacket

Belstaff Gangster Waxed Cotton Jacket ($645): I admit, one of the main reasons this jacket caught my eye is its name (but let’s be real, can anything from Mr Porter truly be categorized as “gangster”?). Name aside, it has a great trim fit, and waxed cotton is a good way to get the look of leather without the pricetag.

Vest

Rag & Bone Milano Waistcoat ($255): This vest is is a nice piece because even though it’s a sweater, it doesn’t fall into the trap of looking frumpy (which sometimes can happen with open sweaters like cardigans and vests). The buttons, pockets and triangle-opening at the bottom give it a pulled-together, suiting feel.

Lightweight Scarf

Yigal Azrouel Tonal Colorblock Scarf ($135): Throwing on a lightweight scarf like this one is an easy way to cut the chill without risk of overheating once you go inside.

For more specific Spring outfit ideas, click here. And if you’d like more tailored help with your Spring wardrobe, contact me.

I can’t believe it’s already been three weeks since my trip to Paris. I had a spectacular time wandering the city and checking out all the shops on my list. When it comes to how the men over there style themselves, I will say this — French men wear scarves like nobody’s business. Even once indoors, the jacket comes off, but the scarf stays on. It’s clearly an integral part of the outfit. Below are a couple mannequin shots I took outside Eglé Bespoke demonstrating different ways to incorporate a scarf into your look.

dressy

casual

Note in both images how the scarf doesn’t cover up the other detail at the neckline — tie knot or collars. It actually adds visual interest and dimension to the look, making it more sophisticated. Another nice thing about adding neckline detail is that it draws the eye upward making you look taller and flattering your chest. On top of that, the vertical lines created by the downward drape of the scarf are slimming…scarves for the win!

Below are a few more images from the trip:

Doorway on Rue du Mont Thabor

These button cufflinks are an easy way to add color to your wardrobe -- and a nice change from the silk knot.

Looking out the window of the Musée Carnavalet in the Marais

Surprisingly, this taxidermy ceiling at Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature did not give me bad dreams.

Patterned socks are a small detail that pack a lot of style punch (remember, only a sliver of the pattern is visible to others)

Snowy night on Pont des Arts

Caught myself in this one

In choosing a leather jacket, the crucial element to consider is fit. I’d rather see you in a pleather number from H&M than one of those ridiculously huge jackets guys often wear that look like they could fit a small family underneath. To demonstrate how important fit is, Tony Martignetti and I shot this video comparing his old leather jacket to the new one we bought together. Things to look for when shopping for a well-fitting leather jacket: high cut armholes, shoulder seams resting on your shoulders, trim fit though the torso and sleeves hitting at the base of your wrist (Tony likes his sleeves slightly long, to accommodate sports jackets and sweaters. If he wanted to get those sleeves shortened, I recommend leather specialists like Art Bag and Modern Leather Goods here in NYC.).

Tony is the founder of Martignetti Planned Giving Advisors. Tweet him here and check out his weekly radio show here.

As a Personal Stylist, my mission is to create outfits that make my clients look and feel terrific. Dressing well is about manhandling the rules and trends to create a look that’s uniquely one’s own.

This roundup of Fall’s menswear trends and my corresponding “real life” suggestions are meant to serve as inspiration as you figure out what works for you.

Trend #1 Military

Military is a perennial favorite, and designers are adept at keeping it fresh each season. A major bonus that comes with it is the epaulette, which fools the eye into thinking the wearer’s shoulders are broader than they actually are. Look for jackets like Reiss’s military macintosh coat ($485) or Burberry’s wool and cashmere peacoat ($1195).

You could also go the authentic route and hit up an Army-Navy surplus or thrift store for a military peacoat. I found this handsome one (complete with arm patch and interior stencil and name plate) below for $60 at a thrift store in Connecticut last Fall.

Trend #2 British Countryside

Collections from designers like Louis Vuitton and Ferragamo presented an upscale equestrian feel as seen in details like tall boots and neutral and muted colors. Camel and grey are often mixed with burnt orange and deep purple and seen in patterns like plaid and argyle. If you’ve got spare coin and the proper coloring, then this burnt orange toggle coat from Burberry Prorsum ($2990) would take you from zero to Fall in a matter of seconds.

Another option that’s a little less up in the proverbial fashion grill is this tan toggle coat from RL Rugby ($348).

As for fabrics, corduroy and velvet are getting a lot of airplay this Fall. One easy way for you to incorporate some of this into your wardrobe is via neckwear. Check the corduroy ties below from Brooklyn Industries, ($30, below left) and Lands’ End Canvas ($49.50, below right) along with Lanvin’s silk twill and velvet bowtie ($562).

Trend #3 “Tough Guy”

Needless to say, the look here is aggressive. It’s replete with leather, padding, hoods, motorcycle jackets and angry-looking patterns. [Note: Proceed with caution when wearing gym towel and boxing gloves for activities occurring outside the ring.] If you like this vibe, then try Alexander McQueen’s Regal Skull T-Shirt ($195) below.

A leather jacket is another easy way to rock this trend. I like this charcoal one from Second Sunday ($215) because the grey is an unexpected color for a leather jacket.

Trend #4 English Schoolboy

The pants are tight, and that’s (sort of) ok. I think it goes without saying that this trend — tight pants — is one of the hardest to, er, pull off. Plaid “party pants” like those seen in the above runway images can be a marmite choice for some, as they often have a privileged prep-school feel. But if you have a slim build and would like to go down this plaid-bottomed path, consider a pattern with minimal contrast, and make sure the pants give you ample breathing room. And keep everything else understated. I would pair Thom Browne’s unconstructed trouser below ($595) with a clean white dress shirt and navy or grey blazer. At the very least, Chuck Bass would approve.

Trend #5 Industrial Revolution

For his debut namesake collection, former Cloak and Versace designer Alexandre Plokhov looked to industrial photography for inspiration. Elements of this are apparent in his collection, along with those of YSL, Ermanno Scervino, Burberry Prorsum and Dolce and Gabbana. Designers showed items like chambray shirts, leather, stained denim, henleys (my go-to layering piece), vests, and hooligan hats, all in moody colors like grey and black. A great way to implement this trend would be with the charcoal DSquared2 henley ($390) below. I like the inclusion of brown elbow patches for color and textural contrast.

I also recommend this extended double-layer vest from John Varvatos ($498). Note that the color of this vest is called “Iron Grey”…very Industrial Revolution-chic.

Trend #6 Lumberjack

I sincerely hope you did not have your fill of brawny man style over the last few seasons because this trend is back in force. Check out all of the tweed, twill and plaid in the runway images above. Even if you do not frequently engage in the chopping down of wood, you, too, can incorporate this trend into your daily steez. Try this plaid half-zip work shirt from Polo Ralph Lauren ($195). It’s a cool mash-up of the half-zip silhouette typically seen in sweaters, with the plaid typically seen in a sport shirt. The half-zip also lends to easy, interesting layering.

Another easy way to do it up lumberjack-style is with a sporting vest. Look for details like padding, pockets and zippers. Try Moncler’s Ander houndstooth vest ($895) or Ralph Lauren Black Label’s short canteen vest ($695) for an outdoorsy, woodsman-y feel.

There you have it — my Fall 2011 trend report. Good luck in molding these themes into your own taste and budget as the leaves hit the ground. And as always, I welcome your comments and questions. Happy Fall, people!

Runway images courtesy of Fashion Snoops.

This week I styled a client in a thin cashmere sweater, a leather vest, and a lightweight jacket over that. It was a cool and creative look because it combined several different fabrics and textures that one might not normally think to put together. When we were done, it occurred to me that the season for interesting spring layering is fading. Pretty soon the weather will be so hot you can barely bring yourself to wear just one layer. So get your layers on while you can.

Here are three specific examples of combinations I like:

Sweater + leather vest + lightweight jacket

Sweater from Rag & Bone ($240), vest from Golden Goose ($395), and jacket from Rag & Bone ($625).

Note: Check out the grey contrasting panels on the back of the sleeves on the jacket. A unique, playful touch.

Oxford stripe shirt + wool vest + jean jacket

Shirt from Polo Ralph Lauren ($85), vest from RL Rugby ($198), denim jacket from Levi’s for Opening Ceremony ($250)

Note: if you’re going want to wear jeans with this look, make sure the wash is distinct (i.e., darker or lighter) from that of the jacket.

Henley + vest + blazer

Henley from Barney’s Coop ($65), vest from J. Crew ($118) and blazer from Gant Rugger/Bonobos ($398).

As I’ve said before, layered dressing has a distinct advantage in that it creates visual interest. It’s also a nice way to deal with a chilly morning leading to a warm and sunny afternoon, and then back to cold once the sun goes down: remove and replace layers as needed.

Some of you may remember this shawl collar Rag & Bone driving coat from my men’s holiday gift guide. It was originally $795, but I spotted it on sale at Saks today for $548 (7th floor men’s, NYC). Run don’t walk, people!

Transitional jackets are one of my favorite categories of menswear. These mid- and lightweight pieces are a terrific way to add variety to your layering without the bulk of most winter jackets. Not to mention the need for pieces like this signal the happy end of a ridiculously cold and sloppy winter. Below are a few of my favorite options in a variety of style that will take the edge off those chilly mornings and nights but won’t weigh you down during the day.

A.P.C. cotton peacoat ($430). This classic style typically found in wool feels very fresh in lightweight cotton.

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F.M. Allen Avedon Coat ($498). This sportcoat-inspired style is great for someone on the traditional side who wants to infuse some ruggedness into his look. Best of all, this puppy is machine washable.

Filson Mackinaw Cruiser ($280). The shacket (shirt-jacket hybrid) is a versatile piece you can wear over a single item in Spring or do some serious layering with in the cooler months. You get a lot of bang for your buck out of a piece like this.

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All-Son Military Jacket ($68). After season upon season of shoulder buttons and tabs, I’ve pretty much reached my breaking point with the military trend. But I do like this subtle rendition from All-Son for Urban Outfitters. I’m not even sure why they call it “military” — maybe it’s the chest pockets? Names aside, it’s a little less in-your-face than the standard military look without those excessive shoulder details. Nice style at a good price. ‘Nuff said.

Few things make me happier than inspired and successful holiday gift shopping. Below are ten holiday presents to consider for your husband, boyfriend, dad, brother…or to pass along to well-meaning gift-givers with a nasty Christmas sweater habit.

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1.// Travel Ashtray: Your guy fancies himself a modern-day Don Draper? It doesn’t get any more Mad Men than Phillipi’s Black Habana travel ashtray ($88). Its black leather case, magnetic closure and stainless steel details all make me want to go pick up a bad habit.

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2.// Man-Bags: Gorgeous textured leather, intricate stitch detailing, and off-center zipper…this specimen, above left, from Doucal’s ($278) is the man-bag to end all man-bags. But lucky for obsessives like me, there will never be an end to man-bags. So if you are looking for something a little more undone, then check this on the right from Will Leather Goods ($289). I like the distressed leather, grommets, contrast handles and of course the buckle closure at the bottom (see here). Very vintage army feel.

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3.// Manhattan Kit: Sazerac Straight Rye Whiskey ($25-150), Carpano Antica Sweet Vermouth ($25-35), Griottines brandied cherries ($25), Angostura Bitters ($13), and a tray that makes large ice cubes ($10). Side note: some people fear they “might look like a pansy” if they throw an ice cube in their whiskey glass. But Whiskey Expert Josh Wortman says it’s perfectly ok to use the ice cube trays above (and in fact as the ice melts, some liquid can open up the flavor — so it tastes better). Says Josh, “I use these trays all the time at home. The idea is you get good coldness with minimal dilution. You do want some dilution depending on the spirit.” So let your man enjoy his Manhattan with minimal watering-down and minimal pansiness with this all-encompassing kit.

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4.// Shot Glasses: Ok, so I’m very a bit partial to bulls. In keeping with the cocktail theme of the previous entry is this bull’s head shot glass ($28). It’s perfectly calibrated so it balances right-side-up on its horns and nose. So your guy can attend to Important Things sans worry over spillage. (The shot glass also comes in bear, deer, moose, rabbit, ram, rhino.)

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5.// Wool Coat: If your man still wears a fleece jacket or ski parka over his dress clothes, the jig is up. Every guy needs a coat that is both warm and grown-up looking. A great option is this wool driving coat from Rag & Bone ($795) because the style is classy, the length is modern, and the interesting details like double-welt pockets and black shawl collar give it a little extra steez. Buy it in the same size as his suit jackets (those that fit well!).

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6.// Lace-Up Boots: My men’s boot obsession is no secret, and this season designers have failed to disappoint with all sorts of options for this style. If your guy is into intricate detailing and statement-making, then I’d recommend these from Roberto Cavalli (top row left, reg. $1150, now on sale for $690). The high shine, dramatic broguing, lug soles and buckle detail are all attention grabbers. A toned down option in the same color and with the same degree of shine are those above from Gucci (top row right, $795). If he prefers to fly even further below the radar, then check out those in the bottom row from Giorgio Armani. The matte finish leather is a much subtler statement. (Pant-tucking not required.)

.7.// Glen Plaid Tie: Christmas ties get a bad rap. Take a pass on those that blink, sing or come with their own greenery, and give him something a little classier. This red and green glen plaid tie ($88) from Engineered Garments will give him that holiday flavor without the nasty aftertaste.

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8.// Man Jewelry: The problem with how many guys wear jewelry is that they take it to extremes (see Seasons 1 and 2 of Jersey Shore). For anything beyond the typical wedding ring/watch/cuff-links/tie clip, there’s an art to wearing men’s jewelry well. Two key points to keep in mind that will keep him clear of getting all Mr. T on you: keep it simple and not too sparkly and make sure he feels like himself in it, like he’s been wearing it for years. With that in mind, here are two options to consider. Nautical is always a big theme in menswear, and along those lines I like this Hooked bracelet from Miansai ($55, above left, comes in other colors). Pair it with a nautical watch and maybe a simple rope bracelet, and you’ve created a look that’s both easygoing and personal to him. If that’s too sporty, then consider this necklace from Maison Martin Margiela ($125). It’s solid and ruggedly stylish, and best of all, you won’t have a Situation on your hands when he wears it.

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9.// Leather Belt: I love the non-traditional hardware and leather loops on this Apolis Pelican Belt ($138). Plus the fact that you get to roll it up and stick it in a tin can when you’re done wearing it! What guy wouldn’t love that?

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10.// Rath & Co. Gift Certificate: But the most effective way to guarantee your man looks his best this holiday season? Give him a gift certificate to Rath & Co. Until February 15, 2011, we’re offering $50 off the purchase of all services. We’ll tell him his best colors, hair styles, patterns and styles. We’ll clear out his closet and even shop for him. We pretty much do everything except clean and cook dinner. Heck, we don’t even do that for ourselves.

Photo courtesy of GQ

Lately I’ve been shopping for three different clients looking for each one’s own “It” leather jacket. Each guy already has a leather jacket that he wears, but the fit is off in all cases. The biggest mistake guys make with leather jackets is buying ones that are too roomy and too bulky. A leather jacket should fit snug to the body; you shouldn’t be able to fit anyone else under there with you. Armholes should be cut high, and sleeves should hit no lower than at the base of your wrist. Don’t be surprised if you have to go one size down from your usual to get the right fit.

Other ingredients for achieving leather jacket greatness:

1.// Think leather jacket, not leather blazer or leather trenchcoat. The former feels dated, and the latter might get you arrested.

2.// Choose the right color for your complexion: if your skin tone is cool, go with black; if warm, go with brown.

3.// Don’t be afraid to up the style quotient when deciding what to pair it with. After all, you are wearing your “It” leather jacket, so you might as well wear it with personality. Try it with a slim tie for a night out as seen above.

4.// Refrain from putting a jumble of things in your pockets. This not only adds bulk, but it will also stretch out that killer fit you worked so hard on.

5.// Just say “no” to patches, logos, racing stripes, hoodies and excess distressing.