You can buy linen either off-the-rack or through a custom clothier (if you’re a R&Co. client, you know how crazy I am for custom). Check out these fabric swatches below for some linen sportcoats I recently ordered for two clients.

Fabrics can made solely of linen as with the shirt below from Hartford, or they can be blended with other fabrics for a more refined look. The fabrics for the sportcoats above are combined with cashmere and silk, which makes them drape beautifully. We’ll pair them with everything from jeans and a henley or v-neck t-shirt to dress pants and a dress shirt and pocket square.

Ninja stylist tip for staying cool: if you custom order a linen (or any summer fabric for that matter) sportcoat or suit, ask for it to have no lining or a quarter lining. This works wonders.

I know, linen wrinkles. If this really bothers you, give it a shot and see if you can get beyond it. Embrace the imperfection. Would you rather be drenched in sweat or easy-breezy with a few creases in your clothes?

Aside from the obvious: linen shirts, suits, sportcoats, and shorts, you can also look for vests made of linen, like the one above from J. Crew. Vests are an ideal warm-weather solution for getting the level of formality inherent to having an added layer over your dress shirt, without the extra weight of a sportcoat or suit jacket.

For casual social occasions, or if your office isn’t dressy, consider wearing a linen tie like the one above from Pierrepont Hicks. It’s seasonally appropriate and has the added bonus of keeping your neck much cooler than a heavier silk would.

Other linen accessories you can work in your summer repertoire include pocket squares and shoes (above left and right). While they won’t necessarily keep temperatures down, you will certainly look cool in them!

How do you plan on wearing linen this summer?

image via Moda Operandi

Growing up, my idea of fun was hitting the local menswear store and picking out ties for my dad. (Yah I know, I’m a good time.) And Father’s Day was always one of my favorite holidays because it gave me an excuse to do just that. If you’re not as fanatical about menswear as I am and need inspiration on what to give this year (or if you’re a dad and want to give hints), read on for my Father’s Day gift list.

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Dressy Dad

These unique rose gold cufflinks ($550) are refined yet manly. The broad range of colors within the mother of pearl makes them easy to match.

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Snappy Ankles Dad

One of the easiest, most low-commitment ways to up your style game is with socks. If your dad needs extra help in this department (if he wears black Gold Toe’s everyday, the answer is yes), get him a few pairs from Paul Smith. They make a great variety of colors and patterns, and the socks themselves are durable ($30). Note that the more colors there are in the pattern, the easier it will be for him to match them to his outfit. For my Sock Matching 101 guide, click here.

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Festive Dad

Does your dad (a) like to make a statement or (b) know how to have fun? Then these embroidered Dia de los Muertes slippers ($325) may be the perfect gift for him.

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Practical Dad

Bulky pants pockets are definitely not dapper. If your dad suffers from overstuffed wallet syndrome, help him streamline with this handsome crocodile money clip ($125).

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Traveling Dad

Many of my clients travel nonstop, often to different countries, and this multi-currency wallet would simplify things for them ($285). Make the gift extra-special by having it gold-stamped — you can choose from a variety of different motifs and/or lettering.

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Aesthete Dad

For the dad that has everything, this vintage table box inset with a silk Hermes scarf would make a fantastic addition to his repertoire (contact store for price).

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Need more tailored gift-giving help? Contact me. And have a happy Father’s Day!

Image via anymeeting.com

You’re wearing a shirt and tie along with your boxer shorts and slippers. Let me guess…you’re on a Skype call. Am I right? Well, you’re not the only one In fact, one of my clients recently confessed he had done just that. Though the correct camera angle can conceal what shouldn’t be seen, you should still focus on your overall telepresence. There are many aspects to this, beyond whether or not you are wearing pants. Read on for 7 suggestions on how best to present yourself for video conferencing, including what to wear and related etiquette points.

1) Wear a full outfit
Business on top and party on bottom works in some situations — but not here. What if you have to jump up from your desk to adjust lighting or equipment? Not to mention, being dressed professionally from head to toe (including shoes) will put you in a productive business mindset .

2) No busy patterns
Much like with what to wear for headshots, you shouldn’t wear anything that’s apt to distract the person with whom you’re conferencing. Busy patterns can become wavy lines on video, so stick with subtle patterns or solids. Generally, blues and purples look good, and you should avoid white, black or red. Also, if you’re sitting against a solid background, make sure you don’t wear the same color as that of the wall behind you.

3) Check yourself
Before starting the call, make sure everything is in place visually by either previewing yourself on your computer camera or recording a test video of yourself using software like Vodburner (for Windows) or Pamela (for Mac). Check out your teeth and your nose to make sure nothing is where it shouldn’t be. Also, take a look at your hair. It may look fine in the bathroom mirror but fuzzy and strange on camera depending on how much light is behind you. You may need some extra product, and previewing yourself is the best way to determine that.

4) Background and lighting
Be sure you have a clutter-free background and a quiet environment with no distractions or interruptions. For lighting, natural light is best, but if you aren’t near a window, make sure the room is well-lit (video looks grainier when it’s dark) and that no bright lights are shining on you. Try to position the light so it’s right behind the computer screen so that the other person isn’t looking into a bright light. If the light is too bright, try covering it with a cloth to soften the effect.

5) Look at the camera, not the screen
It’s awkward at first and takes some getting used to, but in order to create the best experience for the other user, you should be looking at the camera, not the screen. One trick to doing this is to make his or her window small and drag it as close to the webcam as possible. Also, turn off the window that allows you to see yourself during the call. It can be tempting to check yourself out, but it’s distracting to the other person.

6) Body language
In contrast to a face-to-face meeting in an office or boardroom, in a video call all the other user sees is you, chest up. So small actions or habits like clicking your pen or rubbing your face will register more on video. Here are some other body language and setup considerations:

• Sit up straight (not off to the side).
• Smile – this can be hard to do when you’re not right in front of the person, but it’s important.
• If you can sit slightly back from the camera, do it. You will look better proportioned on the screen.
• Plug your laptop in instead of running it on battery power, which may default to poorer video or sound quality.
• Angle the camera so that it’s at eye level or else pointing down at you. If it’s aiming up at you, it won’t be the most flattering angle.
• Once you’ve got your setup, don’t adjust it during the call unless the other person asks you to, as this can be very distracting.

7) Don’t multitask
The person you’re conferencing with will know when you’re not paying attention, so avoid embarrassment and turn off all other programs on your computer. That way there won’t be any unexpected sounds going off, and you won’t be tempted to look at your email (the other user can hear you typing!).

I realize this is a lot to think about for a simple video call, but it’s absolutely worth it. Invest the time and effort up front creating a strategy that works, and it will make each subsequent call easier.

What are your strategies for successful video conferencing?

1) Lay your clothes out the night before. We learned this back in grade school, but at some point along the way we stopped doing it. If you have the space, get a wardrobe valet to keep things neat and visible as you make your selections. It also helps to check the weather so you can decide on what shoes and outerwear you’ll need.

2) Maintain an organized closet so that you can find everything you need the moment you need it. For my tips on how purge your closet, click here.

3) Once you’ve cleared out the things you don’t need, keep your clothing organized by type (suits with suits, blazers with blazers, shirts with shirts, etc.), then by color within each type. Again, it’s all about easy access.

4) If you don’t have heavy beard growth, shave the night before. This also reduces irritation.

5) Put your keys on top of anything you need to bring with you, like the Netflix envelope you’ve been meaning to mail for the past few days.

6) Keep all the things you know you’ll need right before you walk out the door in one handy place, for example in a basket in your closet, or in a hallway drawer. This might include a lint-brush, hair product, glasses, sunglasses, change for coffee/the paper, mobile device, wallet, office security badge, transit pass.

7) If you find yourself always hitting the snooze button and running behind as a result, put your clock across the room from your bed so you have to get up to turn it off. If you’re notorious for bagging your morning workout, put your sneakers on top of your alarm clock for extra motivation – again, on the other side of the room from your bed.

8) Create an upbeat playlist to keep time as you get ready – the first song for your shower, the second for getting dressed, the third for breakfast, and the fourth for finishing touches and walking out the door.

9) Set up your coffee machine or the blender with your smoothie ingredients the night before.

10) When you get home at the end of the day, put everything back where it belongs (that way you aren’t going crazy looking for your tan belt the next day).

And here are three terrific bonus tips from my friend and client Tony Martignetti:

11) Have 2 or 3 combinations that you know with certainty are perfect for different occasions: casual, biz casual and Wall Street. You can go to these quickly when there isn’t time to be creative and thoughtful. [Rath & Co. note: your stylist can create a pictorial wardrobe layout or a spreadsheet listing these combinations for easy reference.]

12) Get your shirts washed and pressed before you need them. Always have plenty of clean shirts to choose from.

13) Know which shoes go with which belts. As you’re putting on the belt, you envision the shoes.

Thanks to Tony for his additions. (For more of Tony and a few laughs, check out these video style tutorials Tony and I shot: on mixing high and low in menswear here, and on how the perfect leather jacket should fit here.)

How do you save time in the morning? Feel free to share your tips below.

The Most Flattering Style

Just about everyone looks good in a pair of inky blue, straight-leg jeans. This is the first basic pair that I recommend everyone should have. It’s timeless.

The Best Style for Your Build

What does the perfect pair of jeans look like? Well, that depends on your physical proportions.

• If you’re of average build, good styles for you include RRL Straight Leg, 7 Standard Classic Straight Leg, J Brand Kane or Citizens of Humanity Sid.
• If you’re slim, try 7 Jeans Slimmy. Don’t let the name freak you out – these aren’t skinny jeans. The Slimmy’s are cut straight, without a lot of excess room in the leg and with a slight taper toward the ankle. I’ve had many conservative clients love the fit of these. Billy Reid’s Slim Jean is another good choice.
• If your thighs are built, try Joe’s Straight Leg Classic or AG The Protégé.
• If your waist size is larger than your inseam and/or you need more room overall, check out 7 Jeans’ Austyn cut. Sometimes loose cuts (of anything, really) can make you look larger than you actually are, but these give you room to breathe while still looking flattering.
• If your rise is low (this is the distance between your waist and the bottom of your crotch), Hudson’s Byron cut is an excellent option.

Note: Aside from cuts, there’s a huge variety of pocket styles among different types of denim. This is an important factor because you want to make sure that the rear pockets are not too long for your seat. For example, I’ve found that with clients 5’ 8” and under, the pockets on the 7 Standard Classic jeans are too long and end up making the client look misproportioned.

Washes and Colors

Once you’ve got the dressier dark blue rinse, you’ll want to get a more casual rinse that’s a little lighter in color (see above). These are for weekend afternoons and low-key trips to your favorite watering hole.

Another easy way to add versatility to your denim wardrobe is to introduce colors aside from blue. I’m a big fan of grey, white, off-white (the latter two especially good for warm weather; see above) and other interesting shades like red. If this appeals to you, check out Rag & Bone for an array of unique washes which change each season. Last Fall, I styled a client in a pair of burgundy AG’s and orange suede Louis Vuitton driving loafers. It was a very cool look! Note that if you go with white (a bold, confident choice), make sure you keep them spotless.

Savvy Shopping Tips

• Unless you’re buying selvedge denim (a thicker, stiffer type of Japanese denim), most jeans will slacken up to one size as you wear them. So it’s good if they’re a little snug when you buy them.
• Sizing varies from brand to brand. If you’re 34 in one brand, you may be 33 in another.
• Always check out your rear view in a three-way mirror when trying on jeans. What looks like a party in the front may be droopy drawers in the back. And make sure to wear a belt when trying on – this will help indicate what fits and what doesn’t. Your jeans are too big if your belt hikes your belt loops up toward your seat, or if you have crimping anywhere along the waist.
• Set aside a chunk of time and try on as many pairs as you can. A few times a client and I had thought we’d found The Right Pair, only to try on one more style and find one that’s even better. It pays to spend a little time doing this.

Tailoring

• Once you’ve found jeans that turn heads, you may need to have them tailored. If they need hemming, make sure you bring with you to the tailor whatever shoes you’ll be wearing most frequently with them.
• Ask your tailor to reattach the original bottom hem after shortening them (they don’t always offer this without your asking).
• If you’re having slim or straight-leg jeans hemmed, pay attention to where the tailor is going to cut them. Sometimes shortening jeans can compromise the desired slimness in the leg, so in order to maintain the integrity of the cut, you should have them tapered slightly toward the ankle as well.

Side note: if you like the look of cuffed jeans (see “Washes and Colors” above), you can skip the hemming and roll 1.5″ cuffs.

To Be Avoided at All Costs

Not to be dramatic, but please don’t be caught dead in any of the following jean-related offenses: heavily contrasting stitching, (No), obnoxiously-patterned pockets (Double No), very pronounced whiskering or distressing (feels artificial and is not slimming), boot cuts (save it for the cowboys), or black jeans (this worked for the “November Rain” video but little else).

Take Care

Wash your jeans inside out to maintain the color.

Pricetag

In general, you get what you pay for with jeans – up to a certain point. A $50 pair of jeans from Uniqlo is a good option if you’re watching your budget, but know that they won’t last as long as a pair of Citizens, for example, that cost $175. Do the math: in some instances, it makes more sense to invest in quality up front rather than have to replace inexpensive jeans every year. All of that said, I have a client who had been talked into buying several pairs of $1K plus Louis Vuitton denim by an overzealous salesperson before he started shopping with me. Perhaps you cannot put a price on that which makes your butt look good, but really, it’s not necessary to spend more than $250-$275 to get a solid pair of jeans. Once I started shopping for that client, I found him a whole slew of denim that cost less than ¼ of what he had spent previously – and he liked them better than the super-pricey ones.

The Canadian Tuxedo…?

Ever wonder if you’re cool enough to rock the jean-on-jean look? Well, you are! You just need to know how to do it. The key to wearing jeans on bottom with jeans on top is to make sure each item is a distinctly different wash from the other. A fail-safe way to do this is to combine a light rinse denim top with a dark, selvedge jean. A light rinse denim top also looks clean and crispy with white jeans.

I know all of this may sound complicated, but trust me, putting a little effort into your jean shopping will go a long way. If you’d like tailored help with achieving denim excellence, contact me.

Cheers,
Julie

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Trend #1: Africa

Mixing ethnic and tribal prints with classic shapes is key to making this trend wearable. Ikat (one of the oldest patterns around, though its exact origin is unknown) is a great way to rock the look. The clean silhouette and large masculine gridlines on this Balmain shirt ground the lively print, making it suitable for an everyday casual vibe.

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Trend #2: Globe Trotter

This trend incorporates a wide variety of cultural references, while using comfortable fabrics which work well for the frequent traveler. Consider materials like bleached chambray, linen knits, tissue linen, crinkled leather and destroyed denim. This slim-fit cotton and linen blazer from Canali would be the perfect traveling companion and a classic way to adapt this style. Throw your shades in the breast pocket for added sophistication.

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Trend #3: Seafarer

One of my personal faves, this trend brings the nautical look from the deep blue to the streets. Look for sailor stripes, lightweight peacoats, double-breasted jackets, and scarf prints. I like the stripe placement on these Michael Bastian tops below left and right because they broaden you across the chest and shoulders, creating a nice V-shape down to your waist.

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Trend #4: Tailored Sport

Tailored Sport is a good example of a trend you likely won’t want to interpret literally. I can’t think of any clients with situations where it would make sense to wear warm-up pants with a sportcoat. But, if elements of this look appeal to you, take inspiration from sporty materials like nylon, pique, and polished cotton. This Sacai jacket is nicely tailored and would work well either to and from the tennis court or out to a casual dinner.

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How will you be freshening up your look this Spring?

Cheers to peeling off the layers!

Julie

Image via Tommy John

Image via Tommy John

As menswear has evolved to be more fitted, it no longer makes sense to wear outdated boxy undershirts. Tom Patterson, founder of Tommy John undergarments, was kind enough to send me samples of his Second Skin Deep Vneck Stay Tucked Undershirt (below) for one of my clients to test out in the hopes of eliminating this problem. Here’s the feedback my client gave.

-He found them very comfortable and reported that they held their cling even after several washes. “I actually ordered more undershirts and some underwear to try, so I guess I’m a convert.”

-The undershirts are so soft and elastic that he had a hard time folding them, but that’s obviously a lot less important than how they function when worn. This sounds to me like the perfect men’s undergarment — they feel great, and you couldn’t even fold them if you tried.

-The V-neck was the perfect depth so he wouldn’t have to worry about his t-shirt showing beneath his button-up.

-One of them did shed quite a lot after 1 or 2 washings, but after that he had no problems.

Thanks to Tom for the samples — and for creating this much-needed product. You can check out Tommy John here.

Lightweight jacket (bonus if it’s suede or leather)

Don’t underestimate the power of a perfectly-fitting leather jacket. Click for my guide on how to accomplish this. It’s the perfect reminder that Spring is just around the corner.

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Great-fitting polo shirts

I have a new client who says he hasn’t met a polo shirt he didn’t like. My plan is to make him a touch more discerning. After all, everyone is wearing polo shirts. But not everyone gets it right (see Mitt’s missteps). Show some know-how, and make sure yours flatter you. Here’s how your polo should fit, and how to stand out from the crowd when you’re wearing one.

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No show socks

These thin, low profile socks are must-haves for loafer-wearers. No one wants to see your short gym socks smushed into your shoes. Try Falke for this. Match them to the color of your shoes for added discretion.

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Nice gym clothes

Many of my clients are implementing or upgrading their workout regimens this Spring. You don’t have to drop the same amount of coin on gym clothes as on your regular clothes, but the fact is if you like your workout clothes, and they feel good on, you’ll have a better workout. Keep it classy with Lululemon Men’s.

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Non-athletic sneakers

I call these social sneaks. There are loads of different styles to choose from for this. The key is to keep it consistent with your own aesthetic so it doesn’t look like you’re trying too hard. Example: if you’re on the conservative side, you shouldn’t show up to Casual Friday in checkered Vans; instead, go for something simple and classic like a navy, white, or grey Jack Purcell or Rod Laver (above). Wear these when you’re walking around on weekends, or Fridays at work depending on your office environment. Reminder, these are NOT the sneakers you wear to the gym.

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Something linen

Even if you’ve never worn linen, promise me you’ll try it this year. Linen is lightweight and breathable – perfect for those warm days when some airflow is welcome. I highly recommend pair of linen pants, an unstructured linen jacket and/or a linen shirt. You will thank me in July!

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What are you looking to add to your wardrobe this Spring? Drop me a line if you need some guidance.

Cheers, and Happy (almost) Spring!

Julie

A lot of what I hear from new clients is a desire for what I call “Next Level Style”. Next Level Style is the development of a look that is uniquely one’s own, one that will make others sit up and take notice (but only to the degree wanted, of course!). One of my favorite things to do as a stylist is to seek out clothing and accessory items that will create that affect. No more walking into your office and seeing another guy in the same exact Brooks Brothers shirt and Ferragamo tie. With that goal in mind, today I’m shining the spotlight on stingray, a material you’ve possibly never heard of in relation to style.

Stingray leather (also known as “shagreen”) is extremely durable and has been used throughout history for everything from swanky armored clothing to sword handle wraps. Today in the fashion world, stingray is used on items ranging from wallets to shoes. One of the nice things about this skin is that stingrays aren’t threatened by extinction, so its leather can be sourced easily, which also contributes to its relatively low pricing. In fact, stingrays are found in abundance in the shallow, warm waters of the Pacific Rim and are fished commercially as a primary food source.

Here are my 6 favorite stingray items currently available that I hope will inspire you to get some new hides into your rotation.

1. These wallets above from Adam Unlimited ($80, left), and Bottega Veneta ($560, right) are sure to catch peoples’ eyes when you pull one out of your pocket.

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2. Why not incorporate stingray into your dressier attire? These cufflinks ($275) would pop nicely against a grey suit, white dress shirt and a black and white or grey tie.

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3. I recently got this business card holder ($75) from a store called Unearthed on Etsy. I love the strong contrast of black with white. Each piece is customized, so you can tell them your color preference, and they’ll select a hide to suit that.

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4. Interesting belts are an excellent way to mix things up from the usual black or brown leather. I like this one from Scunzani in dark (above), or light brown ($515).

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5. A piece of men’s jewelry (a.k.a. “mewlery”) can be one of the most rewarding items to add to your wardrobe when done right. I am very much into this bracelet ($175, above left), which would work well with most silver-toned watches. And if you want to throw some color into the mix, try this turquoise stingray and braided leather combo ($150, above right).

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6. Stingray shoes are not for the faint-hearted. These balmorals ($1195) from Harris (which I’ve highlighted previously) are so unique and interesting that they will surely be conversation starters. With this price tag though, you must be absolutely sure you love them before taking the leap!

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How do you like to up the style quotient? And would you wear stingray?

Cheers to Next Level Style,

Julie

“Take the package that is me – height, build, bone-structure, baldness and all – and create an image that says ‘authority, approachable’”.

John is located in Oregon, so we did all our work via Skype and email. Here’s how it went down:

Color
The black and silver color combo is too aggressive for business. In addition, because John’s head is bare, the black shirt is overly intense and stark on him – almost making him look like a floating head. Overall, he was coming off too strong in his before look. In contrast, the lavender shirt is more flattering, and in combination with the sportcoat, it’s friendly but authoritative.

Proportion
John is 5’ 8” and slightly stocky, so a main goal was to make him look longer and leaner. The diagonal lines of his sportcoat’s opening “V” are slimming and elongating, and pull him in at the waist. Paired with dark jeans, the jacket creates an overall monochromatic look that also makes him look taller and thinner. We had his jacket cut on the short side to make his legs appear longer.

Detail
The peak lapel on John’s jacket draws the eye up toward his broad shoulders and his face in a flattering way. He looks sharp but approachable with his open collar.

Hair
John had already ditched the moustache pre-Rath. Good call, John! The shaved head is a confident look (studies have been done on this – here’s a great article on the topic). Making the move from contacts to glasses made sense, as it adds dimension to his face so that he doesn’t look so bare.

With no head or facial hair, John’s look was vulnerable. He was attempting to strengthen that, but he was doing it in the wrong way. The end result was “trying too hard.” John says, “Men hate to ask for directions – and I think even more so about their appearance. It’s an admission of helplessness – and perhaps seems a bit vain as well. I think that holds lots of guys back from success … [Now] when I present professionally, the difference in how I feel – and therefore, how I carry myself – and the depth of the confidence I can project – is very significant.”

You can read more about John’s work here. A very warm thank you to him for participating in this article!