Tastehunter

The Grammy Awards are endlessly entertaining, of course for the performances, but also for the quirky statement-making ensembles the attendees wear. There was plenty of eccentricity this year, but here I’ll be addressing the more conventional looks and what can be taken away from them for the purposes of everyday dressing.

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The Now That’s a Classy Situation Award: Ryan Seacrest
Ryan Seacrest is understated elegance at its best. Black and white is a failsafe combo, and I love the straight edge pocket square.  He looks amazing without appearing to have tried at all.

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The Not So Classy a Situation Award: Mike “The Situation” Sorrentino
I’m a little disappointed with The Situation. Don’t get me wrong, this outfit is a trainwreck in every sense of the word — from shiny sleazesuit to chia pet ‘do — but it’s really not as bad as I expected. I had my heart set on something along the lines of, oh say, an Ed Hardy tattoo print onesie. With tearaways. He still gets “Unclassiest” though because even on the red carpet, he’s gotta flash the flesh. Gymtanlaundry, Gymtanlaundry!

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The Best Mixing of Patterns Award: Usher
Usher gets pattern-mixing just right with his dotted tie and checked shirt: he employed two different patterns in varying scales but maintained the same color scheme. However, he’s got enough going on with the shirt and tie, that he’d have been better off keeping the suit a simple black, which also would have given his combo extra pop. He’s bringing Bobby Ewing back with that khaki three-piece with white piping. Polka dots and Dallas menswear don’t mix.

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The Squarest Dude in Crazytown Award: Stephen Colbert
In a sea of clashing prints,

and spooky preacher ties,

this year’s Grammy host keeps it business as usual with his sharp dark tux and grey tie. It’s hard to think of Stephen Colbert as mainstream, but he’s downright bland in tonight’s company!

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The My Razor Was Confiscated by Airline Security Award: Ringo Starr
I’m all for scruff, especially in wintertime, but I wish Ringo had tapered the neckline of his beard before heading out tonight. Rather than shaving a straight line along the jawline, which feels self-conscious and faux thespian to me, he would have done better to have found a middle ground and tapered it down his neck using a beard trimmer. That way it would look groomed but still natural.

I have made no secret of my obsession with men’s boots. I was therefore understandably amped to find many of my favorite styles on sale at Bloomingdales today.

Red Wings, originally $230, on sale for $138.

Billy Reid’s Roper boots, originally $450, on sale for $270.

To Boot’s Andy boots (at very top of image), originally $395, on sale for $237.

To Boot’s Burro boots, originally $398, on sale for $239.

Fiorentini and Baker’s Sub-A boots, originally $445, on sale for $222.

In the words of Larry David…pretty good. Pretty, pretty good!

What I learned from last night’s episode of The Bachelor on ABC: if your tie is bad, it’s ok to change it…and then change it again, even if you’re in the middle of a rose ceremony.

Very bad

There are a few reasons why this look is so sad. First, the knot on the tie looks like an awkward box (whoever tied it didn’t pinch the base enough while pulling the wide end through the loop). Second, you can see the top button of his shirt behind the tie. The tie knot should always cover shirt buttons, or it’s Schlubtown, USA. Also, the shirt hangs open on the left side of his neck, which makes it look like it either doesn’t fit correctly or isn’t pressed right. Finally, the pattern on the tie. Wavy lines near one’s face are not a good thing. You want people to smile when they look at you, not get a migraine!

Medium bad

This second look is better but still not great. Although the knot on his tie is much improved, the tie itself has that fancy-80′s-bathroom-wallpaper thing going, which I would not advise wearing – that is unless you’re a time-traveling powder room from the Playboy Mansion.

Good!

Finally…harmony. This combo is much improved. The tie is all class, no glitz in sight, and the blue shirt brings out the blue in his eyes. This color is a good choice for him, as it gives him an extra glint while he slowly but methodically weeds out all ladies not deserving of his pilot’s wings.

I have perhaps overshared about my affinity for The Bachelor, but last night’s episode provided some good lessons about neckwear indeed!

On sale for $35

This week I was looking for classy, tailored clothing with a certain cool factor for a client, and I decided to check out Ben Sherman in Soho. As luck would have it, practically the entire store is 50% off! We scored a blazer, a button down, and a pair of amazing boots (not on sale, but how cool is the graduation of color in the leather from light at the top to dark at the toe?)

all for $350. They had huge variety of nice casual button-downs like the one above for $35. Many others had interesting details like pearled/metal hybrid buttons and epaulets. If this sale doesn’t spell stockup, I don’t know what does.

(Note: You can also find sale items online here, although the prices on the website don’t reflect the additional half off.)

The Golden Globes are a great excuse for learning a bit about men’s formalwear while picking apart our favorite celebrities.

Jon Hamm always looks dapper both on and off Mad Men. Here he’s rocking a double-breasted peak lapel tux with a bowtie (a peak lapel is a broad V-shaped lapel that points up and out just below the collar). The double-breasted look broadens him; it’s a beefy, old-school masculine look that’s very much in line with his hairy face! While the beard is a little much for my taste, he looks fantastic nonetheless.

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Chace Crawford has on a shawl collar tux (a shawl collar has a smooth, rounded edge lapel). This look harkens back to the 1950’s and was made famous by James Dean. It’s a gorgeous, classic look that can be worn with either a bowtie or a long tie. The shawl collar is best kept on the slim side. The subtly-patterned pocket square is a nice touch.

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Eli Roth is sporting a notch collar 2-button tux with a long tie (a notch collar has a triangular-shaped indentation where the lapel and collar meet). The two buttons – as opposed to one button on traditional tuxes – keep it modern and understated. If you’re going to wear a long tie with a tux, make sure the width and material of the tie match the width and material of the lapel. Satin lapel equals satin tie; grosgrain lapel equals grosgrain tie. You just can’t beat the fit of this Basterd’s tux. Check out additional images here.

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Mickey Rourke – Mickey Rourke is a hot mess minus the hot. Although I’d expect nothing less from this gator-lovin’ rule-breaker, and in fact that’s kinda why I love him. One thing that there’s really no excuse for though in this ensemble is the watch chain. It draws your eye right to his belly…in a bad way. Final verdict: the best part about this look is his date. Girlfriend got it going on!

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David Arquette presents a perfect example of very bad tailoring. A tux should fit you like a chainmail glove (see Eli Roth above). Mr. Cougartown’s pants are too baggy and long. Also, tux shoes should be sleek and streamlined – those big old oxfords belong home in his closet.

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While the all black look feels a little dated and a lot trying too hard, Jeff Bridges pulls it off decently well – with the exception of what appear to be rubber-soled suede shoes. Tux shoes should always be leather-soled, sleek and simple in patent leather or nicely polished calf. The rubber sole is much too casual for this look.

BFI National Archive, "Between Showers," 1914.

True, I have been posting a lot lately about men’s boots, but in the winter, sometimes all you see on a person is his outerwear and footwear, and that’s why I’m a little obsessed. My general feeling about mens footwear is that it should be streamlined and not chunky or clunky. However (and maybe it’s the Maine in me), but when it comes to boots and outdoor gear, I love the look of something rugged and tough. It just screams out masculinity. Like this is a guy who would scoop me up, carry me across a puddle and deposit me on dry curb.

Here are my picks for rugged, lady-scooping goodness:

Red Wings

Red Wings have enjoyed a monster resurgence as of late, largely due to smart partnerships with some major clothing companies.

These babies above are a J. Crew exclusive. If you get them, make sure you go with the “dark wood” color. “Dark straw” is a color no one should ever put on his or her body, I don’t care how close to the ground it is.

I also really like the cleverly named Irish Setters.

All that distressing though limits them to weekend wear unless you work in a casual office setting. A work-friendly option in this line would be these.

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Wolverines

Here is another classic American brand that makes you think of cattle hides and country gentlemen. They have several elegant styles, but my favorites are the Burton,

the Ascot,

and the Darby.

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Filson

These are a great choice too (and currently on sale!). The website says they’re “a favorite of upland bird hunters,” but I assume they’ll work just as well for when you’re heading out to chug beers and watch a game.

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Billy Reid

I’m really drawn to these Roper Boots as well. It’s wellington meets cowboy boot in the best possible way…brilliant!

I came across these fantastic silk scarves at Bryce & Co.‘s very cool holiday pop up store (92 Perry St, NYC).  Regularly $95, they’re on sale for $47.50. They’re a great way to add a bit of color to an otherwise drab winter palette. The store is only open for another week, so hurry in! Check out the images below for more detail.

I came across these sick vintage men’s boots at Manhattan’s Chelsea Flea Market yesterday (lower level of the garage at 112 West 25th Street, btw. 6th and 7th Aves). The top pair are 1942 French Army boots, priced at $80. These are a great way to get that butt-kicking, rugged work boot look without having to run through the trenches yourself. The ones below are also French, from the 1930s, and priced at $100. This classic style has a great worn-in patina that will only get better with age. I love the rich, mahogany shade of leather. Prices at this market are negotiable.

Guys, I have to tell you something that will either upset or (hopefully) liberate you:

You are TOO COOL to still be carrying a backpack.

If you’re no longer a student and are not on a euro tour, there’s no excuse. For some reason, Manhattan’s streets are overrun by knapsacked men, and it always makes me scratch my head because it is such an awkward and unattractive look. It’s especially troubling when the guy in question is wearing what would otherwise be a nice work outfit. Instead, his look is overwhelmed by a clunky nylon box strapped to his back, which only makes one wonder what grade he’s in. It’s also downright dangerous on an NYC subway when the backpack-wearer turns around in tight quarters. I’ve seen this happen to more than one woman, and the guy had no clue he nearly took her out! There are many better options out there to comfortably carry your things while looking great and not injuring lovely ladies who might otherwise be into you.

$50 and under

I like both the style and the price of this messenger bag from Urban Outfitters. It’s got a vintage feel while still work appropriate. The bag comes in two color combinations: khaki with brown and brown with brown. I prefer the contrast of the khaki and brown option (above) — classic and classy ($48).

$50-$100

The top handles and long strap on this tote make it perfect for guys who want the freedom to carry their bag in a couple of different ways: over the shoulder, in hand or slung across the body. This style comes to us from a collaboration between BillyKirk and Urban Outfitters. I like how it embodies classic almost preppy detailing but remains modern via a fresh color scheme. It’s a little hard to tell from this small image, but it’s got playful green piping. I wish it came in other colors too…dark grey with black or royal blue detailing or a deep chocolate brown with navy would look fantastic ($88).

Collaborations between smaller fashion companies and larger chains are big these days — and it obviously worked in this instance as well. Seattle-based Rian Handbags collaborated with Urban Outfitters on this great backpack alternative. I love it because while being wallet-friendly, it still has visual interest in the wax-coated canvas and off-center clamp detailing. It’s got a slightly more urban flavor than the previous two options ($100).

$100-200

This bag above, also by Rian, is perfect for those guys with a little less to carry around. The combination of the canvas with the worn leather is really nice, and I love the edgy artwork used on the interior of Rian bags (it’s the background on the shot below). Designer Rian Berry wrote in an email, “the correlation between the artwork and the bags…is the backbone of our Rian mainline products.” While I’m normally not a fan of large logos on things, on these it’s subtle and doesn’t interfere with the style or appeal of the bag. It also comes in black on black as seen below, which has a bit more of a downtown feeling ($128).

$200 and up

This Sam Cycle bag from Property Of…  is another outdoorsy-feeling bag with vintage and classic details. With its higher price point come more durability and a richer feel than the previous options despite its ruggedness. It’s also a bit bigger and definitely laptop-friendly ($285).

I included the Sackett bag from Moore and Giles twice because I couldn’t decide between the two — Brompton brown leather (top) or Nubuck bison woodland (bottom; I love these names — maybe the latter is what a big game hunter carries his laptop in?). What I’m getting at is not only is this bag absolutely gorgeous, but you also have a number of different colors and materials to choose from. That way you can express your own personal style without looking like you’re trying to show off the brand name of whatever it is you’re carrying ($485).

I hope that if you are a backpack-wearer, one of your New Year’s resolutions will be to graduate from that cumbersome look and pick up something more sophisticated that will suit you better. Happy New Year!

1. Hair product can tend to make your forehead shiny, so wash your face after application to avoid that lacquered look.
2. If the weather is foul, and the party you’re going to isn’t dressy, try wearing a dark wash, slimmer cut pair of jeans with rugged boots. You can even roll your jeans up neatly as seen here:

but for the love of Gandhi, please don’t tuck them like this guy:

3. Be prepared for the occasional host who asks guests to remove shoes at the door by wearing dress socks that are in good repair – you could even try a pair of red or green ones (not both!) for subtly festive flavor. I like these which are on sale from J. Crew.
4. Do keep your facial hair trimmed for holiday festivities. The only people allowed to have big furry beards are Santa and Randy Moss. When your facial hair brings to mind a certain fake beard from Jackass: Number Two…that’s a party fail.

5. Make sure your hair isn’t greasy on the day of the party. You should be looking slick…your hair, not so much. If you’re unsure if it looks dirty or not, ask a female friend whom you trust to be straight with you.
6. If you wear cologne, spritz once (or twice max) on your neck, then put the bottle down. While it’s true that in the wild animals are attracted to each other based on smell, less is more when it comes to people.
7. No matter how festive you’re feeling, don’t wear any decorative ties, sweaters, etc. with things like reindeer or Santa on them. See #2 for how to add a dash of holiday spirit. If you absolutely cannot do without novelty clothing items, put them on a patient friend, like Robert.

8. If you tend to have an everyday uniform like jeans and a t-shirt with a button-down thrown over it, try thinking outside the box for casual party wear. Pair one of your cool graphic t-shirts (no sports team tees please!) with a military cardigan and a nicely fitted pair of dark jeans.
9. If you’re going to a party that calls for “black-tie optional”, and you don’t own a tux, instead of renting one that surely won’t fit right, another “option” would be to wear a black, navy or dark grey suit with a white shirt and a dark either plain or patterned tie.
10. If you wear glasses, make sure the lenses are clean. Ladies want to see your handsome eyes, not the smudges on your glasses.