Did you put together a great outfit today? That's all well and good, but I gotta tell you: if your outerwear is bad news, it doesn't matter what you have on under it. Your look is shot.Your coat or jacket sets the tone for your look, so read on for how to bring it up to speed.A lot of times my one-on-one clients know they need outerwear but don't know where to start. There are a multitude of different types of these jackets, and it can be really confusing, especially if you're shopping online (do you know what a "utility jacket" is???) To simplify your options, I've broken them down by length and given you samples for each. Click the links to see the samples.Here's what you have to choose from for Fall and Winter outerwear:Waist lengthIncludes: bomber, vest, leather and suede (usually this length, but they can also go to upper-thigh), denim (good for layering)Upper-thigh length (length hits about where your hip creases when you lift your knee up)Includes: parka, field jacket, utility jacket (has four pockets on the front), shirt jacket, peacoat, sporty shell-type jacketMid-thigh lengthIncludes: raincoat, overcoat (here's my rundown on how to shop for an overcoat)Knee lengthIncludes: overcoat, dressy/traditional raincoatOf these options, it would be great if you owned one from each length category, but if you can't swing that, try for one from each of two categories, preferably one with a dressy feel and one with a sporty feel. That helps add versatility so you aren't wearing the same thing day in and day out.And make sure the jacket or coat fits you properly. The seams should hit right on the edges of your shoulders, the sleeves shouldn't go past your wrists, and it should fit trimly through the torso, but you should be able to button/snap it.Cheers,JulieP.S. Make sure to check out Fall Style Tip #3 which shows you how to break the monotony if you find yourself wearing the same thing day in and day out.
Your Fall Shopping List
Even if you’re still rocking shorts and polo shirts, the time is now to make plans for your cool weather wardrobe. I’ve been pounding the pavement and interwebs hard looking for the best items for my clients as the stores are flush with new merchandise. If you’re planning on doing some Fall shopping yourself, I must warn you that one of the worst things you can do is to go shopping without a plan or, at the very least, a list. Just wandering into a store aimlessly is for sure the easiest way to end up with nothing at all, or worse, to get pushed into buying a pile of clothes you’ll never wear. With that in mind, I created this list of 18 must-haves (or nice-to-haves) to inspire and keep you organized as you craft a smart Fall/Winter wardrobe.Transitional jacket -- think peacoat, car coat, or other medium-weight optionLeather jacket -- here’s how it should fitOvercoat -- buy now while the selection is good, and there’s still time to have one custom-madeOuterwear vest -- wool/cashmere/down, as in the header imageLined raincoat -- you can also get one with a zip-out lining, which is one of the most versatile garments you can ownDress boots -- yes, you can wear these with your suit!Bad weather boots -- look for options that are waterproof and have rubber soles for tractionWool/cashmere socks -- if you're tall or have very long legs, get ones that go over your calves so your legs remain covered when you sitWool/cashmere ties -- perfect for frigid days in combination with a scarfHat, gloves and scarf -- don't wait for someone to give these to you as a holiday gift!Winter-weight casual pants -- Incotex makes great corduroys and moleskin pantsHeavier-weight sport shirts -- a trim-fitting flannel is a great weekend go-toHeavier weight dress shirts -- in more tightly-woven fabrics like oxfordFall/Winter suits, dress pants and sportcoats -- look for tweeds, flannels and heavier-weight worstedsMenswear vest -- wear with jeans for a stylish going-out lookSweaters -- v-necks, polo-necks, henleys, thin cardigans and thick shawl-collared cardigans are good optionsLong sleeve tops -- in thick materials like waffle-knitHoodie -- look for one that's super soft and trim-fittingRemember, autumn is all about layering, so even if for example the idea of a thin cardigan or outerwear vest don't appeal to you, think about them in combination with the rest of your wardrobe. The more you can mix and match pieces, the more versatile what you own will be.If you'd like more tailored help with your Fall/Winter wardrobe, contact me. I'm currently booking appointments for the first week of October.Cheers,Julie
Spring Must-Haves
I feel silly writing about Spring as I sit at my desk with the heat on blast, but I'm the positive type, and I know that in a few short weeks Spring will be here. In fact, I’ve already been shopping for warm weather clothes for my clients. Now is the perfect time for that, just as stores are loading up with their best selections. With that in mind, below are 6 garments to get you through the coming months in stellar style.
Lightweight jacket (bonus if it's suede or leather)Don’t underestimate the power of a perfectly-fitting leather jacket. Click for my guide on how to accomplish this. It’s the perfect reminder that Spring is just around the corner.
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Great-fitting polo shirts I have a new client who says he hasn’t met a polo shirt he didn’t like. My plan is to make him a touch more discerning. After all, everyone is wearing polo shirts. But not everyone gets it right (see Mitt’s missteps). Show some know-how, and make sure yours flatter you. Here's how your polo should fit, and how to stand out from the crowd when you're wearing one.
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No show socks These thin, low profile socks are must-haves for loafer-wearers. No one wants to see your short gym socks smushed into your shoes. Try Falke for this. Match them to the color of your shoes for added discretion.
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Nice gym clothes Many of my clients are implementing or upgrading their workout regimens this Spring. You don’t have to drop the same amount of coin on gym clothes as on your regular clothes, but the fact is if you like your workout clothes, and they feel good on, you’ll have a better workout. Keep it classy with Lululemon Men’s.
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Non-athletic sneakers I call these social sneaks. There are loads of different styles to choose from for this. The key is to keep it consistent with your own aesthetic so it doesn’t look like you’re trying too hard. Example: if you’re on the conservative side, you shouldn’t show up to Casual Friday in checkered Vans; instead, go for something simple and classic like a navy, white, or grey Jack Purcell or Rod Laver (above). Wear these when you’re walking around on weekends, or Fridays at work depending on your office environment. Reminder, these are NOT the sneakers you wear to the gym.
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Something linen Even if you’ve never worn linen, promise me you’ll try it this year. Linen is lightweight and breathable – perfect for those warm days when some airflow is welcome. I highly recommend pair of linen pants, an unstructured linen jacket and/or a linen shirt. You will thank me in July!
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What are you looking to add to your wardrobe this Spring? Drop me a line if you need some guidance.
Cheers, and Happy (almost) Spring!
Julie
Finding Your "It" Leather Jacket
Lately I've been shopping for three different clients looking for each one's own "It" leather jacket. Each guy already has a leather jacket that he wears, but the fit is off in all cases. The biggest mistake guys make with leather jackets is buying ones that are too roomy and too bulky. A leather jacket should fit snug to the body; you shouldn't be able to fit anyone else under there with you. Armholes should be cut high, and sleeves should hit no lower than at the base of your wrist. Don't be surprised if you have to go one size down from your usual to get the right fit.Other ingredients for achieving leather jacket greatness:1.// Think leather jacket, not leather blazer or leather trenchcoat. The former feels dated, and the latter might get you arrested.2.// Choose the right color for your complexion: if your skin tone is cool, go with black; if warm, go with brown.3.// Don't be afraid to up the style quotient when deciding what to pair it with. After all, you are wearing your "It" leather jacket, so you might as well wear it with personality. Try it with a slim tie for a night out as seen above.4.// Refrain from putting a jumble of things in your pockets. This not only adds bulk, but it will also stretch out that killer fit you worked so hard on.5.// Just say "no" to patches, logos, racing stripes, hoodies and excess distressing.
Rathie Spies: Façonnable Leather Jacket Sale Alert
I ducked into Façonnable out of yesterday's rainstorm and was greeted by the chocolate brown gaze of this devastatingly handsome goatskin leather jacket.
Yes, at $1295 (30% off $1800), it's a long-term investment, but this jacket is the kind of timeless piece that will improve with age and last a lifetime. I like the patch pockets and matte finish gold snaps, but the best part about it is the buttery soft leather.When buying a leather jacket like this one, the most important part is fit. You can't alter leather without paying an arm and a leg, which you're probably not going to be in the mood for after spending your Friday paycheck on something like this. So make sure it fits trim to the body, particularly in the shoulders and under the arms, and that the sleeves hit right at the base of your wrists and no lower.Jacket can be found at Façonnable, 636 5th Ave at 51st street, NYC, 212.319.0111.
The Best Part of Spring: Lightweight Jackets
Aside from the gorgeous weather, for me a sure sign of Spring is a sudden jonesing for the perfect lightweight men’s jacket. This time around, I’m expanding the search to jackets plural because there are so many fantastic options out there.Here are a few that I'm especially fond of in varying styles.
This jacket is the smart result of another high-low partnership, this time between the middle-of-the-road UK department store John Lewis and Joe Casely-Hayford, British designer of luxury menswear brand, Casely-Hayford. I always love a leather jacket, and both the olive color and quilting nicely distinguish this lovely creation from all those black and brown leather bombers out there. ($604).
With the Brock Jacket, Elie Tahari takes the somewhat overplayed Member's Only style and gives it a shot in the arm by combining it with classic trench coat details. The color, epaulets, pockets and tortoise buttons all say sophisticated mackintosh, but the abbreviated length modernizes the look. This jacket is an excellent choice for transitional outerwear. ($302).
I'm very into this Microcheck Jacket from Armani Jeans. It gives you that sporty style without looking like you're wearing the hoodie from your tracksuit. Another nice thing about this type of men's jacket is the modified shorter collar that's meant to be worn up. It looks clean and sharp, and you don't have to be the guy that goes out of his way to pop a collar that was intended to be worn flat. As one friend says, "popped collars = I need attention." ($295).
Army jackets are big this Spring, so if you're thinking you want to march to that beat, I'd recommend Diesel's Jonca Jacket. It's a stylish but not overdone take on the look. So even if and when this trend has passed, you'll still be able to wear this handsome anorak without feeling like you've been-there-done-that. ($220).
I classify APC's navy military style jacket as a shacket (shirt-jacket combo) because it has the formal styling of a shirt and is shaped straighter than jackets typically are. Beyond the freshness of this style, the epaulets, patch pockets and navy color all provide additional charm. And if you want it to be a little less shacket-y, you can tighten the adjustable drawstring at the waist for a more blouson look. ($280).
On a budget? You're in luck. All-Son designed this surplus jacket exclusively for Urban Outfitters. It comes in grey (above) and olive green. It's got that tough, been-around-forever feel that I find very appealing. ($68).
Not on a budget? Well you've got luckypants too. Check out this handsome leather vest from Salvatore Ferragamo. It's got a hint of tough downtown edge, but the gorgeous brown leather keeps it all class, all the time. Yes, it's pricey, but imagine how much more it would be if it had sleeves! ($1950).There's such a huge variety of styles to choose from when it comes to lightweight jackets, and that's why my affinity for this wardrobe staple is so strong. No matter your taste, body type, face shape or coloring, there's something out there for you. So go tear off that down monster and open up a can of Spring.