I was flipping channels the other morning when I came across the above specimen of non-eyebrow grooming. At first I thought it was a joke, like maybe David Faber was having a snooze in the green room when Erin Burnett took a razor to one half of his brows and some crazy glue and a fake mustache to the other. But after a few minutes with no one batting an eyelash or, er, a long eyebrow strand, and showing David Faber how foolish he looked, I realized that it was no joke indeed.I’m not saying guys should go out and get their eyebrows perfectly formed, but when the pieces are so long they start to tickle your eyeballs, or you have one eyebrow instead of two (a unibrow? uh...check please), it’s time for a little grooming action. Find a reputable salon in your area and ask the groomer to reduce your brows. Tell him or her that you do not want scarily feminine eyebrows of the Jesse Metcalfe variety, but rather normal, cleaned-up, but still masculine ones. Then get yourself some tweezers and a pair of small scissors, and touch them up yourself in between visits, being careful not to get overzealous. Also consider using Givenchy’s Mister Eyebrow fixing pencil which contains adhesive polymers to keep those stubborn stragglers in line.P.S. Dear TV-photographing, I wish I knew how to quit you.
Hot Summer, Cool Vests
My cousin who works in A&R in the music industry sent me the above picture of his stylish self in the audience of the American Idol finale a few nights ago (it's a family quirk, taking pictures of the tv). He’s rocking a sharp-looking Michael Andrews Bespoke vest, an old off-the-rack shirt that he had tailored to fit, and Persol shades as neckwear. The vest is made of lightweight wool and cost about $300. Check out how perfectly it fits him and the spirited lining in the images below.
Bespoke refers to clothing made to a person's exact specifications and involves the creation of a unique pattern for each customer, which why is the fit is so dead-on.
“No one can see it. It’s like I’m carrying around a little secret.”
Cousin or no, I love the look of a guy in a vest, particularly when it’s worn with confidence. They're actually very slimming the way they pull the midsection in when fitted correctly. As the Sartorialist says, guys might wear vests more often if they calculated how many extra beers they could drink without looking fuller in the waistline, by just pulling in their guts with a vest. And just because temperatures are rising, you don’t have to abandon this smart look. For hot weather, it’s all about fabric and light colors. A white cotton long sleeve shirt will always be cooler than one that’s black, rayon and short-sleeved. Natural fibers like cotton, linen and wool (tropical weight for summer) draw heat away from the body, keeping your temperature down, and light colors don't attract heat. And if you're ditching your blazer in favor of a vest...well, more points for the vest when trying to beat the heat.With that in mind, I selected a couple lightweight vest options that work for summertime and fit within other price ranges. The nailhead vest from Billy Reid below is made of 100% cotton, has whalebone buttons and runs $245.
The shrimper boat lining is a cool down-home touch.
And here it is styled with the Orleans shirt ($165).
For those seeking lower price points, J. Crew has an Irish linen vest ($88) that will keep you cool as a cucumber on summery days. Try the british khaki if your coloring is warm.
Or the grey if you're cool.
So this Memorial Day weekend, go on, crack open a cold one, and vest it up for summer.
A Winning Combination: Blue Stripe Shirt & Purple Tie
I have always appreciated Brian Williams’ style, and this shirt and tie combo is no exception. What works in particular for me is the use of an analogous color scheme – i.e., colors that appear adjacent to each other on a color wheel, in this case blue and violet. (A color wheel is a circular diagram of the spectrum used to show the relationships between the colors, as seen below.)
Analogous color schemes are often found in nature and are harmonious because the colors involved are closely related. Beyond that, this combination strikes me as pleasing because the base color is blue, which conveys peace and order -- a feeling I rarely get watching the news these days (so thank you for that, Brian Williams!). The Bengal stripes lend a casual air to the look, but the dark suit and solid tie ground it with a bit of formality. In addition, this pairing is fresh and eye-catching because, while it is harmonious, the violet-light blue shirt and tie pairing is somewhat unexpected.For those looking to recreate this look, I found some similar options. For shirts:
from Canali ($200), Hickey Freeman ($117) and Nordstrom ($59.50) in descending order of wallet-busting. And for ties I like the violet chevron-textured one from Michael Kors ($85) atop the pile below,
Sam Hober's Purple Oxford Silk ($80 but sadly out of stock at the moment),
or, for something with texture, try Sam Hober's silk grenadine ($80).
Side note: in researching Brian Williams’ style for this post, I stumbled across a blog entitled “The Brian Williams Tie Report Archives,” dedicated to nothing other than painstakingly archiving the neck wear worn by America’s most trusted voice in evening news. This blog isn't the strangest thing I've ever seen on the internet, but it's close enough for rock n' roll. In spite of that, I gotta say it's a relief knowing I’m not the only one who watches the news mostly just to scope out what the anchors are wearing.
Rathie Spies: Façonnable Leather Jacket Sale Alert
I ducked into Façonnable out of yesterday's rainstorm and was greeted by the chocolate brown gaze of this devastatingly handsome goatskin leather jacket.
Yes, at $1295 (30% off $1800), it's a long-term investment, but this jacket is the kind of timeless piece that will improve with age and last a lifetime. I like the patch pockets and matte finish gold snaps, but the best part about it is the buttery soft leather.When buying a leather jacket like this one, the most important part is fit. You can't alter leather without paying an arm and a leg, which you're probably not going to be in the mood for after spending your Friday paycheck on something like this. So make sure it fits trim to the body, particularly in the shoulders and under the arms, and that the sleeves hit right at the base of your wrists and no lower.Jacket can be found at Façonnable, 636 5th Ave at 51st street, NYC, 212.319.0111.
How to Wear Plaid for Summer If You're Not a Lumberjack
Designers have plaid flannel-ed us silly over the past few seasons, and the trend doesn't appear to be going anywhere. Plaid itself is a timeless pattern, although it's understandable for one to call me biased given the tartan background of my website. If you're not engaged in the chopping down of trees but are wondering how to wear this style in a subtle, non-grunge trend way, I suggest trying a plaid silk necktie in a traditional width, 3 to 3.5 inches. The sheen of the silk feels fresh in contrast to the near ubiquitous plaid in duller fabrics like flannel and cotton. If you wear it in this way, you'll be referencing the style ever so slightly, but because you aren't diving head first into it, or combining it with other trends like skinny tie width, these pieces will still feel current for years to come. Above are a few of my favorite choices for Summer. From left to right: Drakes $135, Fairfax $130, Etro $155, Fairfax $130, Drakes $135. All from Barneys New York.
Ready, Aim, Fire: Gieves & Hawkes Buckshot Oxfords on Ebay
Spotted on eBay are these rare, handsome cap toes from Gieves & Hawkes. The randomly scattered perforations are the calculated answer to what happens when you fire rock salt at your shoes from a side-by-side Purdey game gun. A spirited choice, these killer kicks will bring some life to a calm outfit. This pair is a size 13 US and a rich, dark brown leather. Bidding starts at $279 and ends May 9, at 9:35 AM PST. They retail for $435.
Thank You Ramen & Friends!
Many thanks to the lovely Yoshie over at Ramen & Friends for my q&a session. If you'd like to learn a little more about me, Rath & Co., and what to wear on a hot date, check it out...
Heschung's Gentlemanly Spring Boots
It was cold and windy here in Manhattan today, and so of course my first thought was boot-related: "what can a guy wear on his feet on a chilly pre-Spring day when the temperature barely makes it over 50 degrees?" He can't bring out the old rugged Red Wing-types (although they are just about my favorite thing in the world), as that would be pessimistic. It's almost May...we should be peeling off layers, not putting them on! There's got to be some middle ground. And that's when I thought of Heschung's Ginko Boot ($575). I spotted them in Barney's about a month ago, and they caught my eye for their unique look. They're elegant and a little less serious than some of the tougher boots I've featured in this space. The contrast between the tan leather and natural canvas makes them stylish in their own quiet way. And I love the how the stitching pops against the canvas background.Oh, P.S., I just added a separate blog category for BOOTS. So now my boot crush is official.
Saks Friends and Family Event: Food for Thought
Saks 20% off Friends and Family event begins in stores tomorrow and runs through April 25. While I'm not one to look a gift horse in the mouth, I wonder about the term "Friends and Family" when the discount is posted front and center on their website. To steal the title from one of my favorite movies, I'm thinking "Me and You and Everyone We Know" might be a more apt name for it. Between the whole world knowing about the discount and the long list of brands for which the special doesn't apply, there's going to be more competition than ever for the good stuff. After studying the fine print noting what lines are excluded from the sale, I came up with a few items worth having a look at -- or at least discussing! 
A lot of times I have trouble finding short sleeve sport shirts that I like because so many of them just look sloppy to me. I like this one from Rag & Bone ($195) for its crisp, clean pintuck detail down the front. These vertical lines are actually slimming, so if you haven't yet sculpted your '10 Summer Beach Body, look to this shirt for a quick fix. 
Rich chocolate brown leather + Converse hi-tops = cunningly updated old-school style. Check 'em out ($145)..
If you typically lean toward a more traditional look but are looking for subtle ways to mix it up without breaking the bank, think about adding colorful socks like these from Paul Smith ($30) to your repertoire. They're a great way to get a flash of color into your look without stepping outside your comfort zone. Extra points if you match them to another part of your outfit..
With the warm weather approaching, the lightweight fabric of a knit tie feels very fresh to me. Most neckwear in this material that I see around is either in solid colors or has contrasting horizontal lines. This one from Rag & Bone ($105), however, stands out to me with its tone-on-tone diagonal textured stripes. No matter what your age, the knit tie lends a touch of youthfulness to your look, and the unexpected detail on this one will definitely take your outfit to another level.Note: if the thought of wearing the above items all together in one outfit has even crossed your mind (oh noes!), consider scheduling some time with me. Please see my Services page.
Rathie Spies: Vintage Military Pea Coat and Web Belts
I found this handsome WWII navy pea coat at an antique store in the sleepy town of Winsted, CT, this weekend. Priced at $60, it was hard to walk away from the smart, sturdy-looking thing. It's a size 36 (equivalent to a small) and in excellent shape. Check out the hand-stitched arm patch,
stenciled-in name and serial number,
and inside name plate.
Kind of makes me wonder under what circumstances Meachum got the coat from Blackburn.The helpful shop owner also had several web belts from Vietnam and WWII (prices L-R are $15, $20, $10).
I'm particularly into the blue one, which is from the Air Force. I love all of the grommets combined with the metal plating, and the color is perfect for Spring.
All items can be found at A Step Back in Time (a fitting name for both the shop and the town) at 458 Main St, Winsted, CT, 860.379.3160.
Spotted: Diesel Black Gold Blazer Similar to Jude Law's from SNL
I've been trolling around trying to find a blazer like the one Jude Law wore on SNL last month and also to the Tokyo premier of "Sherlock Holmes" back in February. I recently came across Diesel Black Gold's contrast lapel blazer ($530 at Saks), which has a very similar feel in color scheme and lapel shape. The body of the jacket is a linen blend, and the shawl collar is satin. I would suggest wearing it with a simple white t-shirt à la Jude, rather than the distracting graphic shirt above. The blazer itself is enough of a statement; anything else will detract from it.
Ebay Find: Wickedly Perfect Brunello Cucinelli Vest
Some of you may remember my very exuberant Valentine's Day ode to a certain gray Brunello Cucinelli outerwear vest. At $1245, however, this piece was not for penny pinchers or those who have been madoffed. So you can imagine the little ache in my stomach when I came across this same epically perfect item on eBay with a starting bid of $535 (size L). If that's still a little rich for your blood, check out its pinstriped compadre with a current bid of $122.50 or BIN $299.99 (size M). The chalk stripes add some visual interest but also make it slightly harder to match than the solid gray. I'm also very into this similar but lighter weight pale blue version for $449 BIN (sizes L, XL and XXL).I was reading a blurb on gq.com about the Italian designer Cucinelli, and I think I finally figured out what it is about his clothes that have me so charmed: the writer describes him with the Italian word "sprezzatura", which loosely means "stylish nonchalance". It's that perfect combination of looking good without looking like you tried. And that's exactly why these vests have me at hello.
Get Your Spring on With Two Shirt and Jacket Combos
I was pulling clothes for a store fashion show this past week, and I put together two sharp looks that are definitely blog-worthy (despite the shamefully bad iPhone photos). The first is a killer royal blue nylon Boss Orange jacket ($275) with a checked shirt from DKNY ($69). The colors in this outfit are lively but guy-friendly, and the jacket has the perfect amount of metallic sheen where it's not obnoxious. Try it with jeans for going out or stone-colored khakis for day.The second outfit provides a pop of Spring color as well, but the effect is somewhat softer. I find the mint green INC shirt ($39.98) particularly refreshing, as it makes me think of the juleps I'll be gulping down in a matter of mere weeks for the Kentucky Derby. The grey Hugo Boss jacket ($345) anchors the lightness of the shirt, and the graphite pinstripe cotton pants from Kenneth Cole ($79.50) are the perfect choice for a lightweight but still put-together pant.Nothing gets the heart racing for Spring like a little warm weather steez.
Rathie Spies: Club Monaco $39 Jacket Alert
Club Monaco just marked down a bunch of things, and there are some absurdly good deals to be had. I breezed through yesterday and found one sale item that I'm particularly fond of -- the jacket above ($39). It's made of heavy cotton twill, is fully lined and has a faux fur neckline. The cropped length and popped collar give it a laid back but put together feel, similar to some of the other Spring jackets I highlighted here recently. Gazing out the window on this beautiful NYC day, it's no doubt hard to think of the chilly times when you might need a jacket such as this. For this price though, it might be worth jogging your memory!
The Best Part of Spring: Lightweight Jackets
Aside from the gorgeous weather, for me a sure sign of Spring is a sudden jonesing for the perfect lightweight men’s jacket. This time around, I’m expanding the search to jackets plural because there are so many fantastic options out there.Here are a few that I'm especially fond of in varying styles.
This jacket is the smart result of another high-low partnership, this time between the middle-of-the-road UK department store John Lewis and Joe Casely-Hayford, British designer of luxury menswear brand, Casely-Hayford. I always love a leather jacket, and both the olive color and quilting nicely distinguish this lovely creation from all those black and brown leather bombers out there. ($604).
With the Brock Jacket, Elie Tahari takes the somewhat overplayed Member's Only style and gives it a shot in the arm by combining it with classic trench coat details. The color, epaulets, pockets and tortoise buttons all say sophisticated mackintosh, but the abbreviated length modernizes the look. This jacket is an excellent choice for transitional outerwear. ($302).
I'm very into this Microcheck Jacket from Armani Jeans. It gives you that sporty style without looking like you're wearing the hoodie from your tracksuit. Another nice thing about this type of men's jacket is the modified shorter collar that's meant to be worn up. It looks clean and sharp, and you don't have to be the guy that goes out of his way to pop a collar that was intended to be worn flat. As one friend says, "popped collars = I need attention." ($295).
Army jackets are big this Spring, so if you're thinking you want to march to that beat, I'd recommend Diesel's Jonca Jacket. It's a stylish but not overdone take on the look. So even if and when this trend has passed, you'll still be able to wear this handsome anorak without feeling like you've been-there-done-that. ($220).
I classify APC's navy military style jacket as a shacket (shirt-jacket combo) because it has the formal styling of a shirt and is shaped straighter than jackets typically are. Beyond the freshness of this style, the epaulets, patch pockets and navy color all provide additional charm. And if you want it to be a little less shacket-y, you can tighten the adjustable drawstring at the waist for a more blouson look. ($280).
On a budget? You're in luck. All-Son designed this surplus jacket exclusively for Urban Outfitters. It comes in grey (above) and olive green. It's got that tough, been-around-forever feel that I find very appealing. ($68).
Not on a budget? Well you've got luckypants too. Check out this handsome leather vest from Salvatore Ferragamo. It's got a hint of tough downtown edge, but the gorgeous brown leather keeps it all class, all the time. Yes, it's pricey, but imagine how much more it would be if it had sleeves! ($1950).There's such a huge variety of styles to choose from when it comes to lightweight jackets, and that's why my affinity for this wardrobe staple is so strong. No matter your taste, body type, face shape or coloring, there's something out there for you. So go tear off that down monster and open up a can of Spring.
Jude Law's Leather Lapel Blazer as Seen on Saturday Night Live
Now and then while watching TV, I find myself rewinding and pausing (and rewinding and pausing) to get a good look at something a guy is wearing. It then becomes less about the show that's on than the look I've zeroed in on. The grey shawl collar leather-lapel blazer Jude Law wore on Saturday Night Live a few nights ago presented one such example (see top photo above). He also wore it to the Tokyo premier of "Sherlock Holmes" back in February (see bottom photo above).
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This jacket is outrageously cool for a number of reasons... It's a unique statement piece that you won't find in just any store or clothing line. It shows his (or his stylist's) sharp eye for the distinctive. The jacket is a smart combination of elegant grey suiting fabric with the edgy black leather lapel and therefore presents a fun and compelling mix of styles. On top of that, grey is a universally flattering color, so most people who wanted to could wear this jacket and look great in it. And grey mixed with black is a no-fail color pairing.
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Jude definitely made improvements to the styling of this item since wearing it as a complete suit back in February. [Note: it's best not to split up your suit in this way. It causes the jacket and pants to wear out at different speeds, so when you put them back together, they no longer match each other perfectly. Of course, it's possible that Jude has a whole closet full of this suit across the pond, and he can therefore afford to break it up as he pleases.] He appears to have had its sleeves shortened since the "Sherlock Holmes" premier, which was a smart move. They were much too long there, at least in the image above (jacket sleeve length should never reach lower than where the thumb meets the base of the wrist). I also much prefer the black tuxedo pants as seen on SNL to the grey suit pants. Because the jacket is such a statement piece, the simple dark bottoms ground it and allow it to pop on its own. In contrast, wearing it as a complete suit with this much skin feels like he's trying too hard in a Miami Vice meets The Sopranos way, and therefore draws away from the jacket's cool factor.
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As for what he's wearing underneath, the look is strikingly better with the henley than with his heavage-happy u-neck shirt (also, I'm not sure what that excess black fabric poking out of the bottom of the jacket in his premier outfit is...another top, perhaps so low-cut we can't even see it?). We know Jude likes to show off his chest hair, but it feels misdirected with a suit. I'd also like to see the jacket-tux pants combo with a simple, crisp white v-neck (higher cut please).
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I haven't yet been able to figure out who the designer of this jacket is, but if and when I come across anything similar in my Tastehunting, I'll let you know!
My Hands-Down Favorite Hair Product for Men
My always sharply-dressed and well-coiffed friend was visiting town last weekend, and both his Mint Tingle Facial Masque and his hair product were commandeered by airline security. So he asked me for a recommendation as to what he should buy to tide his hair over while here. After busting on him for being such a product junkie, I told him – and now I’ll tell you – about my go-to hair product: Kusco-Murphy Lavender Hair Cream. While in all cases one size doesn't fit all, I've seen it work nicely on a variety of hair types, and that's why I recommend it. Its texture and weight are perfect, as it’s neither too greasy like some of the heavy waxes out there for guys, nor too sticky like the silicone-based anti-frizz products. Also, it's not a gel, so your hair actually looks like hair, not a gravity-defying "blowout" like DJ Pauly D's signature 'do from Jersey Shore (check out this amusing video tutorial of him demoing his hair styling technique: "I'm just rubbing the gel around the perimeter"...wha? If your hair has a perimeter, we need to talk. See my Services page.).Anyway, back to Kusco-Murphy's lavender goodness. The smell is amazing, but very subtle, not like you bathed in Axe Body Spray. Although this product is on the expensive side, a little bit goes a long way. The best price I’ve found for an 8 oz jar is $30 plus shipping here or $35 from Arte Salon and Bigelow Chemists in Manhattan. Take a dab and rub it between your palms, then work it in back to front.Check it out, and let me know what you think!
http://www.bigelowchemists.com/index.php
2010 Academy Awards: The Stars’ Clothing Personalities
It was clever TV programming last night to pit the guy-magnet movies “Old School” and “Saving Private Ryan” against the 82nd Annual Academy Awards. Although a lot of men are averse to watching awards shows, much can be learned from how the stars present themselves. Here are some interesting picks and the serious and not-so-serious messages they tell me as an Image Consultant.
Wow, just wow. Ryan Reynolds looks relaxed and at ease in his monkey suit, something that’s not exactly easy to accomplish. His confidence absolutely shines through. Takeaway: own your look and people will notice...
James Cameron shows his playful side with a haphazardly stuffed blue silk pocket square. The color and execution of this detail reflect his creativity and unpredictability. The matching of pocket square to wife #5’s dress is also unpredictable…er, unpredictably bad that is. Maybe it was meant as a gesture of solidarity with his incumbent spouse, especially with his stunning and stylish ex Kathryn Bigelow also up for numerous awards. Regardless, someone please tell him that the Oscars and prom are two very different scenes...
In contrast to James Cameron’s fluffy pocket square look is Jake Gyllenhaal’s meticulously folded white one. From his neatly trimmed hair, eyebrows, and beard to his perfectly fastened bowtie, we see his understated sophistication and attention to detail. This is a guy who makes his bed every morning -- or at least tells his butler to...
Style icon George Clooney is always dressed and coiffed impeccably, especially for awards shows. That’s why his hair cut fail is particularly surprising. The man actually has duck fuzz bordering on a mullet. The only rational explanation for this deviation from his usual elegance must be that he’s got an upcoming part in “Wayne’s World 3”. If that's not the case, I’m sure there are boatloads of ladies who would be more than happy to trim the back of his neck for him...
While it’s old news that Robert Downey Jr. is an aggressive dresser, we really see how playful he is via this look. Of note: despite his apparent sneaker-wearing nonchalance, he does match his sunglass lenses to his bow-tie. Evidently there is method to the madness...
Robin Thicke thinks outside the box with his velvet tux and calfskin loafers. It’s hard to do this with formal wear, which has so many hard and fast rules, but the talented Robin Thicke displays his imaginative but still refined clothing personality...
Woody Harrelson…is down with world peace. ‘Nuff said.
Preview of Billy Reid Roper Boot Fall/Winter 2010
It snowed all day here in Manhattan with no end in sight, and so my thoughts have turned to boots as per usual. The folks over at Billy Reid were kind enough to share with me the above preview shots of their totally dope Roper boots for Fall/Winter 2010. Of course, this is not the kind of footwear that's appropriate for today's brutal conditions, but anyone who's read this blog knows that I will look for any excuse to talk boots. I did my fair share of drooling over 2009's installment of the Ropers, but Billy Reid managed to reinvent them in several gorgeous new finishes in addition to the original mahogany, and now I can't decide which I love most. The black ones have just the right subtle touch of biker style. The worn toe of the light brown ones imply a rough and tumble masculinity that I find very appealing. And the dark brown brushed leather ones are just a little bit cowboy. Three unique new flavors of a much-loved boot. Billy says that one thing every man should own is a good pair of boots. In this case, I'd bump that up to three -- one for every mood!
Rathie Spies: Theory Jacket Price Arbitrage
I've been trolling my usual haunts for one of my favorite men's wardrobe items, Spring jackets, and I came across the wax-coated Theory jacket above. It's called the Delancy Rockit Jacket (why the goofy name, Theory? and why did you spell "Delancey" wrong?). I suppose I have Theory on the mind these days, especially with their upcoming sample sale this week. But back to the current object of my affection. To summarize:Military Touches + Heavy Metal Edge = Extreme CoolnessThe waxed finish gives it a stylish leather-like look, without the leather pricetag. Speaking of price...this jacket is available at Barneys Coop, Saks and Tobi.com for $395, but Bluefly has it for $237. On top of that, if you use the code AFF20FS, Bluefly will give you $20 off and free shipping (expires 2/28), so you get this ridiculously cool jacket for almost half off retail. That's what I call shopping wizardry!