In choosing a leather jacket, the crucial element to consider is fit. I'd rather see you in a pleather number from H&M than one of those ridiculously huge jackets guys often wear that look like they could fit a small family underneath. To demonstrate how important fit is, Tony Martignetti and I shot this video comparing his old leather jacket to the new one we bought together. Things to look for when shopping for a well-fitting leather jacket: high cut armholes, shoulder seams resting on your shoulders, trim fit though the torso and sleeves hitting at the base of your wrist (Tony likes his sleeves slightly long, to accommodate sports jackets and sweaters. If he wanted to get those sleeves shortened, I recommend leather specialists like Art Bag and Modern Leather Goods here in NYC.). Tony is the founder of Martignetti Planned Giving Advisors. Tweet him here and check out his weekly radio show here.
Reader Question: Versatile Briefcase
Question: Hey Rath & Co! I see that you have some fun backpack recommendations...how about a nice, professional, hip, not-too-expensive briefcase? Big enough to carry a laptop, cute enough for after-work drinks and nice enough for an interview. Thoughts? -Arielle (on behalf of boyfriend)Answer: Hey Arielle (+ boyfriend),Here are three briefcase-type bags that I love and that fit your criteria. Note that you don't want to go too inexpensive with something like this because you'll be carrying your laptop in it. So it needs to be sturdy and well-constructed.Each suggestion below has a slightly different vibe:
Cheers, and let me know how you do!-Julie
Shopping Excursion: Rehearsal Dinner Options for Grooms
In our search for dashing rehearsal dinner options for grooms, Brian Leahy (founder of The Groom Says blog) and I start the day at Kmart and end up at Michael Andrews Bespoke. Part I of the interview (at Kmart) can be read on Brian's blog here, and Part II (at MAB) here.
Special thanks to our gorgeous models, Alex and Adam, and to Michael Andrews Bespoke.Images courtesy of Joanna Wilson Photography.
Rath & Co.-Approved Backpacks
I know I've said before that no grown man should be seen wearing a backpack, but rules were made to be broken. Designers have been giving us some surprisingly terrific options lately, which makes me more inclined to suggest this style bag for my clients. The vibe on these is cool and grown-up -- not a backpack you'd use for Lunchable and Trapper Keeper-toting. Below are seven that I'm particularly fond of in varying price ranges. Mulberry Henry
From the venerable Mulberry brand, the Henry backpack ($570) is sleek and sophisticated, and the gold hardware adds an element of class. This backpack is padded and sturdy enough to carry a laptop. The Brothers Bray & Co. Rucksack
Urban Outfitters calls this attractive surplus-style option ($98) from The Brothers Bray & Co. a rucksack. It might be a easier for you to feel like a grown-up carrying a backpack if you call it by this term ("It's not my backpack. It's my rucksack."). Whatever butters your biscuit. Navy Altitude Rucksack
Another of the rucksack ilk, this one from Topman ($60) is a great, affordable option. At this price, I wouldn't trust it to hold a laptop, but it can certainly get you around town in style otherwise. Ally Capellino Alisdair Backpack
Made from durable (and beautiful) leather and blue Harris tweed, this backpack (£475) for sure is an investment. It will, however, last forever if you take care of it. Fjallraven Anniversary Kanken Mini
A common site on the L train here in NYC, the Fjallraven can run the risk of looking hipster-y when worn in one of the bright primary colors. That's why I like the subtler vibe of the leather label and shades on offer for the anniversary edition ($60). Seil Marschall Canvas Climber's Backpack
Like the Fjallraven above, this bag from Seil Marschall ($475) has a 70's day hike feel, but the leather and metal accents make it appropriate for stylish city life. There you go, 7 fantastic, Rath & Co. approved backpacks for Fall. Now there's no excuse for dressing like the middle schooler next door.
Manhandling Fall 2011's Menswear Trends
As a Personal Stylist, my mission is to create outfits that make my clients look and feel terrific. Dressing well is about manhandling the rules and trends to create a look that's uniquely one's own.This roundup of Fall's menswear trends and my corresponding "real life" suggestions are meant to serve as inspiration as you figure out what works for you.Trend #1 Military
Military is a perennial favorite, and designers are adept at keeping it fresh each season. A major bonus that comes with it is the epaulette, which fools the eye into thinking the wearer's shoulders are broader than they actually are. Look for jackets like Reiss's military macintosh coat ($485) or Burberry's wool and cashmere peacoat ($1195).
You could also go the authentic route and hit up an Army-Navy surplus or thrift store for a military peacoat. I found this handsome one (complete with arm patch and interior stencil and name plate) below for $60 at a thrift store in Connecticut last Fall.
Trend #2 British Countryside
Collections from designers like Louis Vuitton and Ferragamo presented an upscale equestrian feel as seen in details like tall boots and neutral and muted colors. Camel and grey are often mixed with burnt orange and deep purple and seen in patterns like plaid and argyle. If you've got spare coin and the proper coloring, then this burnt orange toggle coat from Burberry Prorsum ($2990) would take you from zero to Fall in a matter of seconds.
Another option that's a little less up in the proverbial fashion grill is this tan toggle coat from RL Rugby ($348).
As for fabrics, corduroy and velvet are getting a lot of airplay this Fall. One easy way for you to incorporate some of this into your wardrobe is via neckwear. Check the corduroy ties below from Brooklyn Industries, ($30, below left) and Lands' End Canvas ($49.50, below right) along with Lanvin's silk twill and velvet bowtie ($562).
Trend #3 "Tough Guy"
Needless to say, the look here is aggressive. It's replete with leather, padding, hoods, motorcycle jackets and angry-looking patterns. [Note: Proceed with caution when wearing gym towel and boxing gloves for activities occurring outside the ring.] If you like this vibe, then try Alexander McQueen's Regal Skull T-Shirt ($195) below.
A leather jacket is another easy way to rock this trend. I like this charcoal one from Second Sunday ($215) because the grey is an unexpected color for a leather jacket.
Trend #4 English Schoolboy
The pants are tight, and that's (sort of) ok. I think it goes without saying that this trend -- tight pants -- is one of the hardest to, er, pull off. Plaid "party pants" like those seen in the above runway images can be a marmite choice for some, as they often have a privileged prep-school feel. But if you have a slim build and would like to go down this plaid-bottomed path, consider a pattern with minimal contrast, and make sure the pants give you ample breathing room. And keep everything else understated. I would pair Thom Browne's unconstructed trouser below ($595) with a clean white dress shirt and navy or grey blazer. At the very least, Chuck Bass would approve.
Trend #5 Industrial Revolution
For his debut namesake collection, former Cloak and Versace designer Alexandre Plokhov looked to industrial photography for inspiration. Elements of this are apparent in his collection, along with those of YSL, Ermanno Scervino, Burberry Prorsum and Dolce and Gabbana. Designers showed items like chambray shirts, leather, stained denim, henleys (my go-to layering piece), vests, and hooligan hats, all in moody colors like grey and black. A great way to implement this trend would be with the charcoal DSquared2 henley ($390) below. I like the inclusion of brown elbow patches for color and textural contrast.
I also recommend this extended double-layer vest from John Varvatos ($498). Note that the color of this vest is called "Iron Grey"...very Industrial Revolution-chic.
Trend #6 Lumberjack
I sincerely hope you did not have your fill of brawny man style over the last few seasons because this trend is back in force. Check out all of the tweed, twill and plaid in the runway images above. Even if you do not frequently engage in the chopping down of wood, you, too, can incorporate this trend into your daily steez. Try this plaid half-zip work shirt from Polo Ralph Lauren ($195). It's a cool mash-up of the half-zip silhouette typically seen in sweaters, with the plaid typically seen in a sport shirt. The half-zip also lends to easy, interesting layering.
Another easy way to do it up lumberjack-style is with a sporting vest. Look for details like padding, pockets and zippers. Try Moncler's Ander houndstooth vest ($895) or Ralph Lauren Black Label's short canteen vest ($695) for an outdoorsy, woodsman-y feel.
There you have it -- my Fall 2011 trend report. Good luck in molding these themes into your own taste and budget as the leaves hit the ground. And as always, I welcome your comments and questions. Happy Fall, people!
Runway images courtesy of Fashion Snoops.
The Importance of Fit: Put Down the Safety Pin
This week's episode of The Bachelorette illustrates that there are no shortcuts to having your clothing to fit correctly. Moments after Ames was given his walking papers, we see him approach Ashley to say goodbye, and in that instant, an ugly truth is revealed: his jacket is pinned in back (this is the third episode where I've noticed this). In real life, you can't walk around with your clothes pinned, and it seems from these pictures that you can't get away with that on reality TV either, even if you think the cameraman has your back.Ames, I thought you were a good guy, and I was sad to see you go, but let's get you some clothes that fit. Call me!
Simple Home Blemish Treatment
No matter how tempting it might be to squeeze, dig or pick at a pimple, word life: don't do it. It will only irritate the area and make it more likely to spread. Below is an anti-zit concoction I discovered a few years back, and it always comes through. It's made up of items that are probably hanging around your kitchen already and is super easy to assemble.Materials:cotton swabhydrogen peroxide1/8 cup powdered oatmeal1/2 tablespoon fresh lemon juice1/4 c egg whites3 drops honeyDirections:1. Dab cotton swab in hydrogen peroxide and clean blemish area (this keeps the pimple from spreading).2. Mix everything else in a small bowl to create a paste.3. Cover pimple with mixture and leave on for twenty minutes.4. Rinse with warm water.5. Apply twice a day until zit disappears. (Leftovers will keep in fridge for up to one week.)
Profile in Awesomeness: Lou Piccolo
Watch Rath & Co.'s latest Profiles in Awesomeness video interview with Lou Piccolo, President of A.L. Piccolo & Co. Inc. Lou is a management consultant and stylish man about town. We sat down with him at the Michael Andrews Bespoke studio and discussed what makes him tick when it comes to menswear. He also reveals his favorite pieces from his vintage cufflink collection.
Rath & Co. in Today's Wall Street Journal
It's an exciting day here at Rath & Co! We were featured in today's Wall Street Journal article entitled, "Stylish Guys Steal Short Sleeves From Nerds." Please click here for our advice on how to wear a short-sleeve button down shirt and not look like Milton from Office Space or your IT guy (ironically enough, our IT guy was in our office when we did this interview -- he claimed no offense).
Tie and Pocket Square Combinations: Going Out Edition
When creating a solid going out look, it's important to choose items that are distinct from your everyday office wear. That doesn't mean you can't wear a work suit out on the town, but rather if you do, you must distinguish it using your accessories. This was my intention when styling a client for a big charity event last week. He has some beautiful new suits and sport coats on order from Michael Andrews Bespoke, and those wouldn't be ready in time for the event. So I worked with what he already had, deciding that for him, it would be all about the ties and pocket squares. Lucky for me, the Saks and Barney's men's departments (mainly) were ripe for the picking of such fancy and festive pieces. And picked I did. See above for the final selection.Pretty much all of these ties and pocket squares work with one another, with the exception of the middle tie and bottom left square. This combo looks like you tried to create your own matching tie and pocket square set -- something you neeever want to wear -- but didn't quite make it happen. As far as matching goes, most of these ties and squares are the perfect "mismatch" for one another. This in fact is what you should be looking for when choosing playful combos that work for going out. If you're the sort of fellow who likes things more coordinated, then you should use the colors in your pocket square to pull out a minor color from your tie. The tie on the far right combined with the pocket square on the middle left is a good example of this.In the end, we went with the lavender tie on the left and the navy and silver striped pocket square on the top left. I like the mix of the smooth surface of the tie with the more textured square. And the stripes work with the stripes because they are of different widths and go in different directions (read more on mixing stripes here). This was an especially cool choice because depending on how you insert the pocket square, the stripes can run either vertical or horizontal, resulting in two very different looks. The horizontal is a bit straight-laced, while the vertical is more unexpected. Versatility warms my little heart. Ties l-r: Canali $140 from Saks, Armani $145 from Saks, Brioni $195 from Saks.Pocket squares left column top-bottom: Armani $95 from Barneys, Charvet $75 from Saks, Simonnot-Godard $60 from Bergdorf; right column top-bottom: Brioni $80 from Saks, Simonnot-Godard $60 from Barneys, Bloomingdales $28 from Bloomingdales.
Rathie Spies: Etiqueta Negra Leather Bag Sale Alert
I almost tripped up the stairs at Etiqueta Negra in Soho today when I saw this gorgeous leather weekender: there he was, just lounging at the top. Hey handsome.I went over to take a few pictures while my client was changing back into his clothes in the dressing room. Originally $1200, it's on sale now for $850. A bag like this is a serious investment, but it will last for years and years -- when of course it will look even better than when you first got it.
Spring Layering: It's Go Time
This week I styled a client in a thin cashmere sweater, a leather vest, and a lightweight jacket over that. It was a cool and creative look because it combined several different fabrics and textures that one might not normally think to put together. When we were done, it occurred to me that the season for interesting spring layering is fading. Pretty soon the weather will be so hot you can barely bring yourself to wear just one layer. So get your layers on while you can.Here are three specific examples of combinations I like:
Sweater + leather vest + lightweight jacket
Sweater from Rag & Bone ($240), vest from Golden Goose ($395), and jacket from Rag & Bone ($625). Note: Check out the grey contrasting panels on the back of the sleeves on the jacket. A unique, playful touch.
Oxford stripe shirt + wool vest + jean jacket
Shirt from Polo Ralph Lauren ($85), vest from RL Rugby ($198), denim jacket from Levi's for Opening Ceremony ($250)Note: if you're going want to wear jeans with this look, make sure the wash is distinct (i.e., darker or lighter) from that of the jacket.
Henley + vest + blazer
Henley from Barney's Coop ($65), vest from J. Crew ($118) and blazer from Gant Rugger/Bonobos ($398). As I’ve said before, layered dressing has a distinct advantage in that it creates visual interest. It’s also a nice way to deal with a chilly morning leading to a warm and sunny afternoon, and then back to cold once the sun goes down: remove and replace layers as needed.
Profile in Awesomeness: Tony Martignetti
Check out my latest Profiles in Awesomeness interview with the well-heeled and always entertaining Tony Martignetti, Founder of Martignetti Planned Giving Advisors and Host of Tony Martignetti Nonprofit Radio. Tony and I talk Garanimals, the Blockbuster Uniform, and why he can sometimes be found in women's pants. We shot this video at the beautiful Michael Andrews Bespoke studio (Note how Tony's tie and pocket square coordinate with MAB's wallpaper. The man is a pattern-matching fool.). Click the image above to play.
Rathie Spies: Rag & Bone Coat Sale Alert
Some of you may remember this shawl collar Rag & Bone driving coat from my men's holiday gift guide. It was originally $795, but I spotted it on sale at Saks today for $548 (7th floor men's, NYC). Run don't walk, people!
Wedding Ties: What to Tie on When Tying the Knot
This post originally appeared on The Groom Says.I always say a groom should look dashing at his wedding, and choosing the right accessories is key to the result. In selecting neckwear for your nuptials, remember that you're not choosing a power tie or a work tie -- you're choosing a wedding tie, and it should be celebratory. After all, that's what the whole day is about. So give yourself permission to think outside the box and go with something you might not normally wear. You'll still look like you, only a cool and sharp groom version of you. Below are several different categories of ties that are just right for those that are altar-bound..SOLIDSSolids: Wearing a solid tie is a nice way to let your bride, no doubt gorgeous in her wedding dress, take center stage. I recommend using a shade from the wedding color scheme and/or the bridesmaid dresses. I like the three below (left to right): from Drake's London (£95), Turnbull & Asser ($175), and to go with a more casual look -- perhaps a khaki suit -- this linen tie from Faconnable ($115). All three are available in a range of colors for easy coordination.
.TONE-ON-TONEIf a solid doesn't have enough flavor, but you still want to keep it simple, try one that's tone-on-tone like those below from Jil Sander ($165; also comes in tan) and Brioni ($195).
.METALLICAnother easy principle to follow is matching metals to metals. So if your bride's jewelry and your belt buckle, watch, cuff links, etc. are silver-toned, you might incorporate a corresponding metallic shade into your tie. This rule works particularly well if your metals are silver and you happen to have cool skin tone, or if your metals are gold, and your skin tone is warm. For silvers, I like this diamond-patterned tie from Sam Hober ($80) and this silk stripe from Giorgio Armani ($145). Keep in mind that the Sam Hober is on the dressy side because the pattern is small.For more on dressing for formal weddings, check here.
.PEARLESCENT PATTERNSFor a daytime wedding, particularly one that's outdoors, you can brighten up the colors with something more upbeat while keeping with the wedding's color scheme. These pearlescent ties, like (clockwise from top left) the stripe & dash from Stephano Ricci ($200), the pencil stripe from A Suitable Wardrobe ($120), the jacquard from Paul Smith ($130), and the paisley from Fine & Dandy Shop ($45) just scream "I DO".
.CHEERFUL PATTERNSTies with light-hearted patterns like this Macclesfield (a style of tie with a small scale repeating pattern named for an early English tie-making center) from Drake's (£95) and this floral from Thomas Pink ($105) are particularly jubilant and therefore excellent picks.
I am also very into this dotted twill tie ($135) from Jil Sander. The color scheme is conservative, but the polka dots keep it whimsical enough that you won't look stuffy on your big day.
.SUBLIMINAL PATTERNSThis is a terrific way to send a message to your guests that you might not want to spell out in so many words. For instance, you might use this stork tie from Ben Silver ($120) to let your guests know it's a boy! and that perhaps they ought to consider getting you a second gift sooner than expected.
Ok, maybe not so much with the storks ... but as you can see, there are loads of different ways you can go in selecting neckwear for your wedding. The keys are to consider what your bride is wearing, the wedding colors and theme, the time and location of the event, your personal style, and (of course) what looks good on you. Nail those elements, and you'll be the best-dressed groom to grace an altar.If you're interested in learning more about how I can tune-up your groom attire, contact me by phone at (646) 434-7842, by email or on Twitter.
Transitional Jackets: Spring is Almost Here
Transitional jackets are one of my favorite categories of menswear. These mid- and lightweight pieces are a terrific way to add variety to your layering without the bulk of most winter jackets. Not to mention the need for pieces like this signal the happy end of a ridiculously cold and sloppy winter. Below are a few of my favorite options in a variety of style that will take the edge off those chilly mornings and nights but won't weigh you down during the day.A.P.C. cotton peacoat ($430). This classic style typically found in wool feels very fresh in lightweight cotton.
.F.M. Allen Avedon Coat ($498). This sportcoat-inspired style is great for someone on the traditional side who wants to infuse some ruggedness into his look. Best of all, this puppy is machine washable.
Filson Mackinaw Cruiser ($280). The shacket (shirt-jacket hybrid) is a versatile piece you can wear over a single item in Spring or do some serious layering with in the cooler months. You get a lot of bang for your buck out of a piece like this.
.All-Son Military Jacket ($68). After season upon season of shoulder buttons and tabs, I've pretty much reached my breaking point with the military trend. But I do like this subtle rendition from All-Son for Urban Outfitters. I'm not even sure why they call it "military" -- maybe it's the chest pockets? Names aside, it's a little less in-your-face than the standard military look without those excessive shoulder details. Nice style at a good price. 'Nuff said.
How to Choose a Tuxedo: Expanded Discussion for Weddings
An abbreviated version of this article appeared on the Brilliant Event Planning blog..
Dressing for a formal event is like ice climbing: one misstep, and it's all downhill. The reason there are so many rules to follow is that the point of formal dressing originally was that at formal engagements, men could blend into the crowd while their female companions could stand out in their finery. For this reason, if you're having a formal wedding, it's particularly important that you nail the details. With so many options out there, here’s your cheat sheet:Renting vs Buying: Buy if at all possible. When you have a chance to dress formally -- particularly on your wedding day -- you should look your absolute best, and renting won't achieve that. I've seen more ill-fitting rented tuxes than I care to recall. Yes, buying a good-quality, well-tailored tux is an investment, but it's a very good one that will pay dividends in photos. Not to mention you'll save in the long run not having to rent each time you need one. Renting will cost you anywhere from 25-50% of the average purchase price of a tux, so if you do it a few times, and it adds up. You'll be happy next time you get a formal invite if you're armed with a tux in your closet that fits you impeccably.
.......Black Tie vs. White Tie vs. Morning Attire: The wording of your invitation dictates the color of your neckwear. "Black tie" (also referred to as "evening dress") means a black bowtie, which is traditionally worn with a tuxedo. "White tie" (also referred to as " full evening dress;" see above left) means a white bowtie, which is worn with tails. This is a very dressy look. Both black and white tie are generally worn after 6PM. A morning suit is your most formal daytime look (see above right). This is typically reserved for weddings taking place before 6PM. The morning coat (essentially a frock coat with the corners cut away -- hence the term "cutaway coat") is black or gray with a single button at the waist. Wear it with gray striped trousers, a gray or white vest, a wing collar shirt, and a tie or an ascot. Leave the top hat and walking stick at home.The information below pertains to tuxedos.Color and Fabric: Black is the standard, but midnight blue is also acceptable. White is typically worn in warmer climates for open-air events. Choose something in a wool that isn’t too heavy. Chances are you’re only going to have one tux in your closet, so it should be as versatile as possible.
Jacket: The most common and versatile jacket type is a one-button, but you can also go with double-breasted (see above), which looks best on guys with broader physiques. If you wear a double-breasted jacket, a cummerbund is unnecessary. The traditional dinner jacket (a fancy name for your tux jacket) is ventless, but a you can also go for a more modern -- and generally more flattering -- look with double vents.
Collar: This should be either peaked or shawl. A peaked lapel (where the points of the lapel point upward; see above and below left) reads as more powerful, whereas shawl collar (which has a continuous curve; see above and below right) sends off a softer message. Unless you’re a waiter, your wedding tux shouldn't have a notched lapel.
...Cummerbund/Vest/Going Without: Formal dressing dictates that the waistband of your trousers should never show, hence the traditional need for either a vest or cummerbund. In general, the cummerbund is a more stylish option. If you wear a vest, your guests might ask where your organ and monkey are, and hopefully you won't be bringing either to your wedding, so why confuse people? Either way, the cummerbund or vest should be subtle and keep its mouth shut. Now is not the time to channel your inner Elton John. If you opt for the classic cummerbund, make sure you wear it with the pleats facing upward (fun fact: this hails from British colonial days where gentlemen used to tuck their theater tickets into the pleats). Formal dressing aside, if you want to stray from tradition, this is one place where that’s ok. These days, it’s become acceptable for guys to skip the vest or cummerbund altogether. Just make sure the shirt you buy has actual buttons or a covered placket, and this will eliminate the need for studs.Pants: Your pants never have cuffs, as that would spoil the sleek lines of your look. They should have satin banding on the sides. No belts please — your tux pants should come with side adjusters to ensure proper fit. If you still feel you need something to hold them up, you can wear suspenders in simple black or white.Shirt: Your shirt should be perfectly pressed and have French cuffs. It can have either a plain, bib or narrowly-pleated front. It’s made of marcella cotton, which is noticeably thicker than regular cotton and has a honeycomb-like appearance. The shirt is either turndown or wing collar. A turndown collar is always sharp, modern and elegant, while a wing collar is a bit of a throwback to the 19th century and works best with white tie.
Bowtie: Always tie it yourself. If you’ve never tied one before, now is the time to learn. This guide will walk you through it. The bowtie should be black and made of silk satin or silk grosgain. If you’re more comfortable in a straight tie, it’s acceptable to wear a black one that’s relatively slim, as a more modern fashion statement (see above).Socks and Shoes: The former should be black silk hose, and the latter either black patent leather or polished black calf skin. Shoes should be lightweight and unadorned.Accessories: As mentioned above, when dressing formally, blending in is a good thing, and standing out only leads to embarrassment as it means you broke the rules somehow. If this feels overly rigid, and you’re itching to show some personal style, you can do so via your accessories. Just make sure you keep the look subtle and nuanced. Your pocket square, cuff links, studs, watch (which matches your cuff links) and charming personality are excellent ways to do so.Fit: As with suiting, fit is your everything when it comes to formal attire. It should fit close to your frame with the jacket hitting exactly on your shoulders. The break on your pants can be slightly shorter than what you normally get on regular trousers.While there is quite a bit to keep in mind with black-tie dressing, don’t let it intimidate you. After all, wearing a tux is about confidence and panache. Once you figure it out, you’ll find that a tux can be completely transformative for any man. It’s absolutely worth the work.
Rath & Co. Holiday Gift Shopping Tour
Finding holiday presents for the men on your list can be nerve-wracking. This year, Rath & Co. is offering shopping tours to help people select gifts for their husbands, boyfriends, brothers, fathers, or others. See below for additional information. Scheduling of tours is done upon request.
Men's Holiday Gift Guide
Few things make me happier than inspired and successful holiday gift shopping. Below are ten holiday presents to consider for your husband, boyfriend, dad, brother...or to pass along to well-meaning gift-givers with a nasty Christmas sweater habit.
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1.// Travel Ashtray: Your guy fancies himself a modern-day Don Draper? It doesn't get any more Mad Men than Phillipi's Black Habana travel ashtray ($88). Its black leather case, magnetic closure and stainless steel details all make me want to go pick up a bad habit.
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2.// Man-Bags: Gorgeous textured leather, intricate stitch detailing, and off-center zipper...this specimen, above left, from Doucal's ($278) is the man-bag to end all man-bags. But lucky for obsessives like me, there will never be an end to man-bags. So if you are looking for something a little more undone, then check this on the right from Will Leather Goods ($289). I like the distressed leather, grommets, contrast handles and of course the buckle closure at the bottom (see here). Very vintage army feel.
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3.// Manhattan Kit: Sazerac Straight Rye Whiskey ($25-150), Carpano Antica Sweet Vermouth ($25-35), Griottines brandied cherries ($25), Angostura Bitters ($13), and a tray that makes large ice cubes ($10). Side note: some people fear they "might look like a pansy" if they throw an ice cube in their whiskey glass. But Whiskey Expert Josh Wortman says it's perfectly ok to use the ice cube trays above (and in fact as the ice melts, some liquid can open up the flavor -- so it tastes better). Says Josh, "I use these trays all the time at home. The idea is you get good coldness with minimal dilution. You do want some dilution depending on the spirit." So let your man enjoy his Manhattan with minimal watering-down and minimal pansiness with this all-encompassing kit.
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4.// Shot Glasses: Ok, so I'm very a bit partial to bulls. In keeping with the cocktail theme of the previous entry is this bull's head shot glass ($28). It's perfectly calibrated so it balances right-side-up on its horns and nose. So your guy can attend to Important Things sans worry over spillage. (The shot glass also comes in bear, deer, moose, rabbit, ram, rhino.)
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5.// Wool Coat: If your man still wears a fleece jacket or ski parka over his dress clothes, the jig is up. Every guy needs a coat that is both warm and grown-up looking. A great option is this wool driving coat from Rag & Bone ($795) because the style is classy, the length is modern, and the interesting details like double-welt pockets and black shawl collar give it a little extra steez. Buy it in the same size as his suit jackets (those that fit well!).
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6.// Lace-Up Boots: My men's boot obsession is no secret, and this season designers have failed to disappoint with all sorts of options for this style. If your guy is into intricate detailing and statement-making, then I'd recommend these from Roberto Cavalli (top row left, reg. $1150, now on sale for $690). The high shine, dramatic broguing, lug soles and buckle detail are all attention grabbers. A toned down option in the same color and with the same degree of shine are those above from Gucci (top row right, $795). If he prefers to fly even further below the radar, then check out those in the bottom row from Giorgio Armani. The matte finish leather is a much subtler statement. (Pant-tucking not required.)
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7.// Glen Plaid Tie: Christmas ties get a bad rap. Take a pass on those that blink, sing or come with their own greenery, and give him something a little classier. This red and green glen plaid tie ($88) from Engineered Garments will give him that holiday flavor without the nasty aftertaste.
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8.// Man Jewelry: The problem with how many guys wear jewelry is that they take it to extremes (see Seasons 1 and 2 of Jersey Shore). For anything beyond the typical wedding ring/watch/cuff-links/tie clip, there's an art to wearing men's jewelry well. Two key points to keep in mind that will keep him clear of getting all Mr. T on you: keep it simple and not too sparkly and make sure he feels like himself in it, like he's been wearing it for years. With that in mind, here are two options to consider. Nautical is always a big theme in menswear, and along those lines I like this Hooked bracelet from Miansai ($55, above left, comes in other colors). Pair it with a nautical watch and maybe a simple rope bracelet, and you've created a look that's both easygoing and personal to him. If that's too sporty, then consider this necklace from Maison Martin Margiela ($125). It's solid and ruggedly stylish, and best of all, you won't have a Situation on your hands when he wears it.
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9.// Leather Belt: I love the non-traditional hardware and leather loops on this Apolis Pelican Belt ($138). Plus the fact that you get to roll it up and stick it in a tin can when you're done wearing it! What guy wouldn't love that?
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10.// Rath & Co. Gift Certificate: But the most effective way to guarantee your man looks his best this holiday season? Give him a gift certificate to Rath & Co. Until February 15, 2011, we're offering $50 off the purchase of all services. We'll tell him his best colors, hair styles, patterns and styles. We'll clear out his closet and even shop for him. We pretty much do everything except clean and cook dinner. Heck, we don't even do that for ourselves.
Finding Your "It" Leather Jacket
Lately I've been shopping for three different clients looking for each one's own "It" leather jacket. Each guy already has a leather jacket that he wears, but the fit is off in all cases. The biggest mistake guys make with leather jackets is buying ones that are too roomy and too bulky. A leather jacket should fit snug to the body; you shouldn't be able to fit anyone else under there with you. Armholes should be cut high, and sleeves should hit no lower than at the base of your wrist. Don't be surprised if you have to go one size down from your usual to get the right fit.Other ingredients for achieving leather jacket greatness:1.// Think leather jacket, not leather blazer or leather trenchcoat. The former feels dated, and the latter might get you arrested.2.// Choose the right color for your complexion: if your skin tone is cool, go with black; if warm, go with brown.3.// Don't be afraid to up the style quotient when deciding what to pair it with. After all, you are wearing your "It" leather jacket, so you might as well wear it with personality. Try it with a slim tie for a night out as seen above.4.// Refrain from putting a jumble of things in your pockets. This not only adds bulk, but it will also stretch out that killer fit you worked so hard on.5.// Just say "no" to patches, logos, racing stripes, hoodies and excess distressing.