In choosing a leather jacket, the crucial element to consider is fit. I'd rather see you in a pleather number from H&M than one of those ridiculously huge jackets guys often wear that look like they could fit a small family underneath. To demonstrate how important fit is, Tony Martignetti and I shot this video comparing his old leather jacket to the new one we bought together. Things to look for when shopping for a well-fitting leather jacket: high cut armholes, shoulder seams resting on your shoulders, trim fit though the torso and sleeves hitting at the base of your wrist (Tony likes his sleeves slightly long, to accommodate sports jackets and sweaters. If he wanted to get those sleeves shortened, I recommend leather specialists like Art Bag and Modern Leather Goods here in NYC.). Tony is the founder of Martignetti Planned Giving Advisors. Tweet him here and check out his weekly radio show here.
Simple Home Blemish Treatment
No matter how tempting it might be to squeeze, dig or pick at a pimple, word life: don't do it. It will only irritate the area and make it more likely to spread. Below is an anti-zit concoction I discovered a few years back, and it always comes through. It's made up of items that are probably hanging around your kitchen already and is super easy to assemble.Materials:cotton swabhydrogen peroxide1/8 cup powdered oatmeal1/2 tablespoon fresh lemon juice1/4 c egg whites3 drops honeyDirections:1. Dab cotton swab in hydrogen peroxide and clean blemish area (this keeps the pimple from spreading).2. Mix everything else in a small bowl to create a paste.3. Cover pimple with mixture and leave on for twenty minutes.4. Rinse with warm water.5. Apply twice a day until zit disappears. (Leftovers will keep in fridge for up to one week.)
Spring Layering: It's Go Time
This week I styled a client in a thin cashmere sweater, a leather vest, and a lightweight jacket over that. It was a cool and creative look because it combined several different fabrics and textures that one might not normally think to put together. When we were done, it occurred to me that the season for interesting spring layering is fading. Pretty soon the weather will be so hot you can barely bring yourself to wear just one layer. So get your layers on while you can.Here are three specific examples of combinations I like:
Sweater + leather vest + lightweight jacket
Sweater from Rag & Bone ($240), vest from Golden Goose ($395), and jacket from Rag & Bone ($625). Note: Check out the grey contrasting panels on the back of the sleeves on the jacket. A unique, playful touch.
Oxford stripe shirt + wool vest + jean jacket
Shirt from Polo Ralph Lauren ($85), vest from RL Rugby ($198), denim jacket from Levi's for Opening Ceremony ($250)Note: if you're going want to wear jeans with this look, make sure the wash is distinct (i.e., darker or lighter) from that of the jacket.
Henley + vest + blazer
Henley from Barney's Coop ($65), vest from J. Crew ($118) and blazer from Gant Rugger/Bonobos ($398). As I’ve said before, layered dressing has a distinct advantage in that it creates visual interest. It’s also a nice way to deal with a chilly morning leading to a warm and sunny afternoon, and then back to cold once the sun goes down: remove and replace layers as needed.
How to Choose the Right Tie Width
Skinny, and even slim ties, are not one size fits all. Check out GQ’s August 2010 cover above featuring Zac Galifianakis ridiculously sporting a tie barely two inches wide. While super skinny ties have had their moment (and thankfully seem to be on their way out), one of the most important considerations you can make when getting dressed is scale, i.e. matching the size of the things you put on your body to your body. This creates balance and visual harmony, which is a nice way of saying, I am trying to help you not look like a lollipop.
See how much better Galifianakis looks with a slightly broader tie? It complements the width of his face and large scale of his facial features, whereas the pencil-thin version only emphasizes them.Bottom line. If you have a broad face and neck, you’re best off with a wider tie. You don’t have to go for the lobster-bib look of the 80’s and 90’s, but consider something in the 3 ¾ -4" range depending on your size. This way you’ll look more well-proportioned and less tootsie pop. If your face and neck are more average width, you can select a more modern, slim tie, somewhere between 3” and 3 ½” across. Of course, your tie at its widest point should equal your jacket lapel at its widest point, and there are ways to determine that. Stay tuned for more posts on proportion as it relates to other elements of your wardrobe, as it truly is the foundation of sartorial distinction.It can be difficult to be objective about your body shape and scale. So, if you’d like advice that’s actually tailored to you, contact me for a body shape strategy session. I will show you which clothing proportions suit you best and why. This can be done in person in the NYC-area or by Skype and email.
How to Choose a Tuxedo: Expanded Discussion for Weddings
An abbreviated version of this article appeared on the Brilliant Event Planning blog..
Dressing for a formal event is like ice climbing: one misstep, and it's all downhill. The reason there are so many rules to follow is that the point of formal dressing originally was that at formal engagements, men could blend into the crowd while their female companions could stand out in their finery. For this reason, if you're having a formal wedding, it's particularly important that you nail the details. With so many options out there, here’s your cheat sheet:Renting vs Buying: Buy if at all possible. When you have a chance to dress formally -- particularly on your wedding day -- you should look your absolute best, and renting won't achieve that. I've seen more ill-fitting rented tuxes than I care to recall. Yes, buying a good-quality, well-tailored tux is an investment, but it's a very good one that will pay dividends in photos. Not to mention you'll save in the long run not having to rent each time you need one. Renting will cost you anywhere from 25-50% of the average purchase price of a tux, so if you do it a few times, and it adds up. You'll be happy next time you get a formal invite if you're armed with a tux in your closet that fits you impeccably.
.......Black Tie vs. White Tie vs. Morning Attire: The wording of your invitation dictates the color of your neckwear. "Black tie" (also referred to as "evening dress") means a black bowtie, which is traditionally worn with a tuxedo. "White tie" (also referred to as " full evening dress;" see above left) means a white bowtie, which is worn with tails. This is a very dressy look. Both black and white tie are generally worn after 6PM. A morning suit is your most formal daytime look (see above right). This is typically reserved for weddings taking place before 6PM. The morning coat (essentially a frock coat with the corners cut away -- hence the term "cutaway coat") is black or gray with a single button at the waist. Wear it with gray striped trousers, a gray or white vest, a wing collar shirt, and a tie or an ascot. Leave the top hat and walking stick at home.The information below pertains to tuxedos.Color and Fabric: Black is the standard, but midnight blue is also acceptable. White is typically worn in warmer climates for open-air events. Choose something in a wool that isn’t too heavy. Chances are you’re only going to have one tux in your closet, so it should be as versatile as possible.
Jacket: The most common and versatile jacket type is a one-button, but you can also go with double-breasted (see above), which looks best on guys with broader physiques. If you wear a double-breasted jacket, a cummerbund is unnecessary. The traditional dinner jacket (a fancy name for your tux jacket) is ventless, but a you can also go for a more modern -- and generally more flattering -- look with double vents.
Collar: This should be either peaked or shawl. A peaked lapel (where the points of the lapel point upward; see above and below left) reads as more powerful, whereas shawl collar (which has a continuous curve; see above and below right) sends off a softer message. Unless you’re a waiter, your wedding tux shouldn't have a notched lapel.
...Cummerbund/Vest/Going Without: Formal dressing dictates that the waistband of your trousers should never show, hence the traditional need for either a vest or cummerbund. In general, the cummerbund is a more stylish option. If you wear a vest, your guests might ask where your organ and monkey are, and hopefully you won't be bringing either to your wedding, so why confuse people? Either way, the cummerbund or vest should be subtle and keep its mouth shut. Now is not the time to channel your inner Elton John. If you opt for the classic cummerbund, make sure you wear it with the pleats facing upward (fun fact: this hails from British colonial days where gentlemen used to tuck their theater tickets into the pleats). Formal dressing aside, if you want to stray from tradition, this is one place where that’s ok. These days, it’s become acceptable for guys to skip the vest or cummerbund altogether. Just make sure the shirt you buy has actual buttons or a covered placket, and this will eliminate the need for studs.Pants: Your pants never have cuffs, as that would spoil the sleek lines of your look. They should have satin banding on the sides. No belts please — your tux pants should come with side adjusters to ensure proper fit. If you still feel you need something to hold them up, you can wear suspenders in simple black or white.Shirt: Your shirt should be perfectly pressed and have French cuffs. It can have either a plain, bib or narrowly-pleated front. It’s made of marcella cotton, which is noticeably thicker than regular cotton and has a honeycomb-like appearance. The shirt is either turndown or wing collar. A turndown collar is always sharp, modern and elegant, while a wing collar is a bit of a throwback to the 19th century and works best with white tie.
Bowtie: Always tie it yourself. If you’ve never tied one before, now is the time to learn. This guide will walk you through it. The bowtie should be black and made of silk satin or silk grosgain. If you’re more comfortable in a straight tie, it’s acceptable to wear a black one that’s relatively slim, as a more modern fashion statement (see above).Socks and Shoes: The former should be black silk hose, and the latter either black patent leather or polished black calf skin. Shoes should be lightweight and unadorned.Accessories: As mentioned above, when dressing formally, blending in is a good thing, and standing out only leads to embarrassment as it means you broke the rules somehow. If this feels overly rigid, and you’re itching to show some personal style, you can do so via your accessories. Just make sure you keep the look subtle and nuanced. Your pocket square, cuff links, studs, watch (which matches your cuff links) and charming personality are excellent ways to do so.Fit: As with suiting, fit is your everything when it comes to formal attire. It should fit close to your frame with the jacket hitting exactly on your shoulders. The break on your pants can be slightly shorter than what you normally get on regular trousers.While there is quite a bit to keep in mind with black-tie dressing, don’t let it intimidate you. After all, wearing a tux is about confidence and panache. Once you figure it out, you’ll find that a tux can be completely transformative for any man. It’s absolutely worth the work.
Boots for Your Suits
These days I often get asked what shoes a guy can wear in the snow that will work with his suit but that won't leave his socks dripping wet or his rear end black and blue by the time he gets to the office. Here are a few things to keep in mind:
1.// A pair of overshoes from Neos, Sierra Trading Post or Tingley (above, very sophisticated businessman) are a no-fail option that will save both you and your expensive lace-ups from the elements. Nice dress shoes are an investment after all, and there's no shame in protecting that..
.........2.// Boot up with a pair of waterproofed lace-up ankle boots with rubber soles for traction. Those above left from Lands' End Canvas ($149) are a good option for the days post-storm where the sidewalks are pretty much cleared and your main goal is to make sure you don't do a face plant in black ice on the way to work. Rubber soles are your friend. For those with deeper pockets, I also like the Alden Plain Toe boot in Kudo leather ($425, above right) because the oiled leather holds up great in mucky weather..
.......3.// Wear something more classically meant for winter conditions like those from Sorel for CONCEPTS (above left, $180) or Tod's (above right, $545) for the commute and simply change into your dress shoes once you get to the office.Nothing like some boots for your suits to help you protect your assets this winter!
Finding Your "It" Leather Jacket
Lately I've been shopping for three different clients looking for each one's own "It" leather jacket. Each guy already has a leather jacket that he wears, but the fit is off in all cases. The biggest mistake guys make with leather jackets is buying ones that are too roomy and too bulky. A leather jacket should fit snug to the body; you shouldn't be able to fit anyone else under there with you. Armholes should be cut high, and sleeves should hit no lower than at the base of your wrist. Don't be surprised if you have to go one size down from your usual to get the right fit.Other ingredients for achieving leather jacket greatness:1.// Think leather jacket, not leather blazer or leather trenchcoat. The former feels dated, and the latter might get you arrested.2.// Choose the right color for your complexion: if your skin tone is cool, go with black; if warm, go with brown.3.// Don't be afraid to up the style quotient when deciding what to pair it with. After all, you are wearing your "It" leather jacket, so you might as well wear it with personality. Try it with a slim tie for a night out as seen above.4.// Refrain from putting a jumble of things in your pockets. This not only adds bulk, but it will also stretch out that killer fit you worked so hard on.5.// Just say "no" to patches, logos, racing stripes, hoodies and excess distressing.
Sock Matching 101
You may not have given much thought to your socks, but believe it or not, people do notice them. You could be wearing the most fantastic pair of shoes, but if the choice of socks is off, it up-ends the whole ensemble. When choosing socks to match your outfit, the common wisdom is that they should coordinate with your pants, as a way of elongating the leg. Of course as with anything else, there are exceptions to the rule. With a monochromatic look, or with khaki trousers and brown shoes, show some personality by sporting a colored sock in a solid or pattern. If wearing patterned socks appeals to you, and you want to take it a step further, select a motif that keys into and complements another element of your outfit: the pattern in your tie, sport jacket, or shirt for example. And whatever you do, make sure your socks are long enough such that when you sit down and cross your legs, your lower leg remains undercover.
Here is a basic combo I like:
And here's one that's a little more "advanced":
Basic: socks from The Sock House, $29.50; tie from Rag & Bone, $105.Advanced: socks from The Sock House, $24.75; tie from Fine and Dandy Shop, $49.
How to Wear Mandals: Tips on Avoiding a Fugly Fashion Mishap
Mandals: the name alone evokes snickers, sneers, and talk of Volvos and wheatgrass. Urban Dictionary defines them as, "An unfortunate fugly fashion mishap involving sandals." But I'm here to tell you that the wearing of mandals doesn't have to be such a hot mess. If you choose wisely, you can avoid embarrassing questions like "how was your hike?" when all you are doing is riding the cross town bus.When it comes to mandals, less is more. Think fewer straps, buttons and buckles, just say no to velcro, and you’ll be in good shape. As Tim Gunn says, "The more seriously one takes the mandal, the more ridiculous one looks." Here are some of my fav options available now…$100 and under
You can't go wrong with a classic leather thong sandal like these. They're simple, easy and summery but not as informal as your standard beach flip flop. Throw them on with jeans or chinos, and it's a done deal..
I'm also very into these Mirage Sandals from J Shoes. The stitching, canvas and rivets give them a cool industrial feel. Originally $148, they're now marked down to $49.99. Check them here..
These First by Jeffrey Campbell huaraches caused a stir when they first appeared on the Loden Dager runway last Fall. If you prefer more coverage than other sandals or flip flops provide, huaraches are a great way to achieve that while still letting your feet breathe. Plus you gotta love their handsome Latin American vibe..
I like the added detail of the croc stamping on these leather bad boys from Cole Haan. It gives the look some visual interest and dresses them up slightly..$100-$200
Still dressier are these babies from Saks. The leather has a rich, luxurious feel. They would work well with a seersucker or linen suit..
If flip flops don't do it for you, check out these woven slides from John Varvatos. I like the variation in texture between the different straps. Also on sale now, these were originally $175..$200 and up
These sandals from Ferragamo don't fail to impress with their contrast stitching and subtly-detailed hardware. A little panache goes a long way..
For a more lively look -- or, if you're heading to St. Tropez, and you want to make like the locals -- check out these limited edition Barigoule sandals from K. Jacques' first ever collaboration with Opening Ceremony. They're the Jesus sandal on holiday.Of course, it goes without saying that if you're going to bare your toes, make sure they're clean and well-tended to, and whatever you do, don't combo up your mandals with socks:Socks + Mandals = Fugly Fashion Mishap for sure.
Show Your Stripes
I'm loving this black and white striped Ralph Lauren tie that I got on sale for a client at Bergdorf Goodman. Originally $150, it rang up as $69. The deals these days are out of control.We'll pair it with a white dress shirt as shown above, a black vest and matching black trousers. I also like it with the striped and checkered shirts below. While pattern mixing may feel a little strange if you've never done it before, consider it as a "next step." Branching out this way will also give you more options to work with when putting outfits together. The main consideration when doing this is to make sure the patterns you pair up are of different proportions to one another. Here, too, the striped shirt works because its stripes run vertical, while those on the tie run diagonal. When done correctly, pattern mixing is an excellent way of adding versatility to your wardrobe.
Too Cool For School (A Case Against Backpacks)
Guys, I have to tell you something that will either upset or (hopefully) liberate you:You are TOO COOL to still be carrying a backpack.If you’re no longer a student and are not on a euro tour, there's no excuse. For some reason, Manhattan's streets are overrun by knapsacked men, and it always makes me scratch my head because it is such an awkward and unattractive look. It's especially troubling when the guy in question is wearing what would otherwise be a nice work outfit. Instead, his look is overwhelmed by a clunky nylon box strapped to his back, which only makes one wonder what grade he's in. It's also downright dangerous on an NYC subway when the backpack-wearer turns around in tight quarters. I've seen this happen to more than one woman, and the guy had no clue he nearly took her out! There are many better options out there to comfortably carry your things while looking great and not injuring lovely ladies who might otherwise be into you.$50 and under
I like both the style and the price of this messenger bag from Urban Outfitters. It's got a vintage feel while still work appropriate. The bag comes in two color combinations: khaki with brown and brown with brown. I prefer the contrast of the khaki and brown option (above) -- classic and classy ($48).$50-$100
The top handles and long strap on this tote make it perfect for guys who want the freedom to carry their bag in a couple of different ways: over the shoulder, in hand or slung across the body. This style comes to us from a collaboration between BillyKirk and Urban Outfitters. I like how it embodies classic almost preppy detailing but remains modern via a fresh color scheme. It's a little hard to tell from this small image, but it's got playful green piping. I wish it came in other colors too...dark grey with black or royal blue detailing or a deep chocolate brown with navy would look fantastic ($88).
Collaborations between smaller fashion companies and larger chains are big these days -- and it obviously worked in this instance as well. Seattle-based Rian Handbags collaborated with Urban Outfitters on this great backpack alternative. I love it because while being wallet-friendly, it still has visual interest in the wax-coated canvas and off-center clamp detailing. It's got a slightly more urban flavor than the previous two options ($100).$100-200
This bag above, also by Rian, is perfect for those guys with a little less to carry around. The combination of the canvas with the worn leather is really nice, and I love the edgy artwork used on the interior of Rian bags (it's the background on the shot below). Designer Rian Berry wrote in an email, "the correlation between the artwork and the bags...is the backbone of our Rian mainline products." While I'm normally not a fan of large logos on things, on these it's subtle and doesn't interfere with the style or appeal of the bag. It also comes in black on black as seen below, which has a bit more of a downtown feeling ($128).
$200 and up
This Sam Cycle bag from Property Of... is another outdoorsy-feeling bag with vintage and classic details. With its higher price point come more durability and a richer feel than the previous options despite its ruggedness. It's also a bit bigger and definitely laptop-friendly ($285).
I included the Sackett bag from Moore and Giles twice because I couldn't decide between the two -- Brompton brown leather (top) or Nubuck bison woodland (bottom; I love these names -- maybe the latter is what a big game hunter carries his laptop in?). What I'm getting at is not only is this bag absolutely gorgeous, but you also have a number of different colors and materials to choose from. That way you can express your own personal style without looking like you're trying to show off the brand name of whatever it is you're carrying ($485).I hope that if you are a backpack-wearer, one of your New Year's resolutions will be to graduate from that cumbersome look and pick up something more sophisticated that will suit you better. Happy New Year!