How to Buy an Overcoat

If you’re still rocking that North Face parka over your suit jacket, it’s time for an upgrade.

Nothing ruins a great look faster than a not-so-great coat. For some reason outerwear often seems to be at the end of peoples’ priority lists, but I can’t stress enough how important it is for your coat or jacket to be up to par with the rest of your outfit. Think about it: you walk into a restaurant to meet a date. Before you take your coat off, she's already formed an impression of you. The same goes for your office elevator. People tell me all the time that they sneak in to their office building in junk clothes/shoes and change once they’re there, but if you’re riding up in the elevator with people in your office, the damage is done. So, have I convinced you of the merits of a good overcoat yet? Good! Here are my suggestions on how to choose one.Fit: I see too many people around in oversized, too long overcoats – such a disappointing look! It makes me think of a little kid playing dress-up. Ideally, your overcoat should fit comfortably over a suit but still be slim enough to look stylish with just a shirt and pants. The best, most versatile length for a modern but still classic look is around your knee. It should hit anywhere from mid/low-knee to just above it, depending on how modern you want the look to be (the shorter you go, the younger the look). A good-fitting overcoat should make you look taller, leaner and broader across the shoulders.Sizing: An overcoat is meant to fit on top of your suit, so when buying off-the-rack, start by going up one size from your suit. Try it on with a suit jacket or blazer and be sure it can close. The sleeves should cover your suit and shirt sleeves.Buttons – Make sure it buttons to a location on your body that you’re comfortable with. I like this houndstooth check coat above from Balenciaga, but notice how low it buttons on the model's body. If it’s too low, and you get cold easily, you might want to choose a coat that buttons a little higher. Remember that you’ll likely be wearing a scarf with it on very cold days which will give you additional coverage. What about the number of buttons? Most people will need 3 buttons for a classic single-breasted style, but if you’re very tall (over 6’ 3”), you should get 4.Style: A single-breasted notch lapel creates a more conservative/traditional look, whereas a double-breasted peak lapel is more dressy, and also warmer due to the fuller coverage and double layer of fabric over your chest. Overcoats also come with a wide choice of different pocket options for you to consider: straight/horizontal, flap/slit, ticket/no ticket, breast pocket/no breast pocket. And make sure to consider whether you want a center vent in back or no vent at all. Don’t get locked in to the first coat you see just because it’s convenient. Look around to find the one that resonates best with you. Perhaps you wouldn't have considered one with a leather collar like the above from Burberry Prorsum until you saw it in person. There's a world of options!Color/Patterns – The most classic colors are navy, camel and grey (in that order), but you might also consider getting a pattern if you’re into that sort of thing. If you do go for a pattern, make sure to keep the rest of your outfit subtle. I’m anxiously awaiting this brown herrringbone which I ordered custom as a chesterfield (with a velvet collar) for a client.Fabrics: There’s a huge range, from camel hair, to wool, to cashmere to blends. Do some research on the different weights that you’re choosing from and figure out how warm you need your overcoat to be before taking the plunge. I’ve seen people buy very heavy overcoats that they never wear because they’re just too warm. Know yourself and the climate you’re in (or that you travel to) and factor that in.Investment: Remember when you purchase a high quality overcoat that it’s a classic piece which should last you at least 10-15 years. This is one place in your wardrobe where it makes sense to invest.Where to buy: You can either go off-the-rack or custom. For the former, try department stores like Saks, Barney’s and Bloomingdale’s, along with specific brand boutiques like Hugo Boss or Prada. If you live somewhere without access to a lot of stores, you can look online. Websites like Mr. Porter and Suit Supply are good go-to’s. If you decide to go custom, check Yelp and local listings (like nymag.com here in NYC) for highly-rated clothiers or ask well-dressed friends/acquaintances where they go.

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Are you shopping for an overcoat this season? I'd love to know what you're considering! Leave me a comment below.Cheers,Julie

How to Create Layered Outfits

I’ve been getting more and more requests from clients wanting outfits with interesting layered combinations. These types of looks are comprised of simple, classic pieces (things everyone should have in his closet), but when pulled together correctly, they become a whole greater than its parts. It's clear that some thought was put into the look, but there's no risk of looking like you tried too hard. If you’re the kind of person who wants to be noticed for your style but not right away (i.e., “who’s the sharp guy in the corner…?”), this style of dressing is perfect for you.In order to have a wardrobe where you can do this you must first collect enough pieces that combine well. Below are 12 essentials to get you started mixing and matching:1) Navy blazer – note: this must fit impeccably or the entire look is shot.2) Grey sportcoat – see note above. 3) Thin hoodie – I like this fleece wool one from Thinple because it’s polished despite being a hoodie.4) Great-fitting jeans – dressy and dark or weathered and sporty are fair game but please nothing crazy on the back pockets.5) Casual pants like chinos or corduroys. 6) Patterned t-shirt – this Missoni shirt would look terrific peeking out beneath a solid navy henley, under a sportcoat. 7) Henley – solid neutrals should be your first choice, but once you’ve got a few as a foundation, you can go for something with a pattern or pop of color.8) Workshirt/Shacket – denim, corduroy, flannel worn untucked and either unbuttoned or buttoned partially (to show the layers beneath). Note: when wearing with a lightweight jacket (see #12), it’s OK if the hemline on this piece is longer than the jacket. It adds to the outfit's visual texture. 9) Thin sweater – think v-neck, zip-neck, or cardigan. Cardigans in my opinion get a bad rap. They aren't just for grandpa looks. In fact, as part of an interesting layered combination, they take on a whole new life. Stylist tip: leave the top and bottom buttons undone. (Ryan Gosling, as usual with all things sartorial, knows what's up.) 10) Thick sweater – a shawl collar is always a good choice, or the one from Agnès B above I just got for a client. I love the stripes inside the collar. With menswear, the snappily-dressed devil is in the details.11) Thin outerwear-type vest – wear over or under your sportcoat (you won’t be able to button the sportcoat with the vest under it; that’s OK.) You can go for down as in this great street style shot from The Sartorialist above, or if you want a more manly man vibe, I am very much into this weathered leather number from Billy Reid. 12) Lightweight jacket – here’s a good one from Belstaff.13) Boots – most layered looks that you'll be building are going to be casual, so boots like chukkas, chelseas or lace-ups are in order to complete the look. 14) Scarf – a lot of guys think wearing scarves as part of an outfit (as opposed to just keeping warm) is “advanced” dressing. They’re right! But if you're reading this article, that's proof you're committed to the cause, and you are absolutely up for it. Here’s a shot of a well-tied scarf I saw on a mannequin last week. The way to execute this is 1. fold the scarf in half lengthwise; 2. put it around your neck with folded end on one side and loose ends on other; 3. pull loose ends through loop; 4. tighten slightly; 5. tuck one of the loose ends up into knot.Keep an open mind when shopping for a wardrobe that works for this style of dressing. Items you might not otherwise consider (like a cardigan) can suddenly become appealing when you see them in combination as part of the whole. Same goes for the Missoni shirt in #6. Maybe it feels a little much on its own, but with just a peek showing as part of a look, it’s perfect. Generally when adding layers, you’ll go from thin to thick as you move out from your body, unless you put a down vest under your sport jacket. And if you get warm, you can easily remove one layer and still have a pulled-together look. Nothing is dependent on anything else. What I really love about dressing this way is that it allows you to build a wardrobe of basic essentials ("the canon" as one of my clients calls it), but you get to play around and show your creativity in pulling together combinations.How do you like to layer your outfits? 

Secrets from a Shopping Pro

“I hate shopping, except for the part where I am back in my apartment with new clothes.”Does that sound like you? A prospective client once emailed that line to me. It made me laugh, but I get it. Shopping can be tiring, stressful and frustrating. Planning an effective shopping trip takes strategic thought. While it should be easy, often things get in the way. But, take it from me, shopping can be a smooth and seamless process. Below are 9 of my best tools and tricks for a well-executed shopping trip.

Here’s a dressing room snap from yesterday as I was getting things ready for a client.

 1) Find a good salesperson. Some of my best relationships have resulted from following my intuition in a store and simply walking up to someone, introducing myself, and explaining what I was looking to accomplish. A good salesperson will make shopping hassle-free – without an overbearing salespitch (more on this in #6). They’ll also give you advance info on when the sales are and in many cases ‘pre-sell’ items to you – which means you get dibs on things before they go on sale to the general public.2) Shop when stores are least crowded, in the morning and early in the week. Try to avoid after work or the lunch rush.3) Shop with a plan. No good shopping decisions are ever made by wandering into a store without an agenda. Have a list, printed out if necessary – I always shop with the client’s list in my pocket – prioritized by need and budget. Consider getting multiples of basics that work.4) Once you’ve assessed your needs (conducting a closet edit can give you clarity on that), shop early. If you need an overcoat, but you wait until January to start shopping, you’ll be out of luck. The fashion calendar is quirky and requires you to think ahead. So spend time before each season begins thinking about what you’re going to need before you need it. Ask yourself, what did you run out of, or what were you missing last year? Put your answers at the top of your list.5) Take a break when you need one, and bring reinforcements. Pack a bag with anything that will help you stay focused – snacks, drinks, etc. Hungry very quickly becomes hangry while shopping. What else might you want to have on hand? This may be TMI, but a client once had something in his teeth that was distracting him during a shopping session. I happened to have a package of floss with me, which he was grateful for. He took care of business, and we got back to business.6) Be wary of overzealous salespeople. It gives me stomach pain when I look in new clients’ closets and see that thousands upon thousands of dollars have been spent on items that don’t even come close to working for them. Sure, the clothes are beautiful in many cases, but if it doesn't work, it doesn't work. In one case, a client was sold a whole slew of dress shirts from a major luxury brand that shall remain nameless – half of them were different sizes from one another (he had obviously been coerced into buying whatever was in the store), and most of them hadn’t even been bothered to be tailored. The sleeves were a good 5 inches too long on every single shirt. Remember, most salespeople work on commission, so they’re incentivized for you to buy more. If they’re telling you how absolutely amazing everything looks on you, chances are they aren’t being sincere. It’s actually a good sign when a salesperson tells you not to buy something.7) Related to the above, make sure you buy your actual size, not your fantasy size. I frequently encounter people who say that they're going to lose weight and that they should therefore buy things that are too small for them. That doesn't work, and it's a trap. You’ll feel awful about yourself if you have a closet full of clothes that don’t fit you. And how can you expect to lose weight feeling crappy about yourself? If you really are committed to dropping lbs, purchase a few things that fit you now. When you have clothes that fit you as you are and therefore look good on you, you’ll be more likely to take care of yourself and reach your weight loss goal.8) You must love everything. If you’re a Rath & Co. client, you'll hear this from me time and time again. You should only buy things if you absolutely love them. Usually when you know, you know, but if you're having trouble deciding, picture yourself on a morning when you’re heading out to work or an evening when you’re going to an event. Would you "go-to" this item? If not, it’s a no.9) Many no’s are simple. If for example, button-fly jeans have always driven you nuts, you’re not likely to change your mind once they're in your closet. Move on!_______________________________________________________________________________Do you have your own shopping survival strategies? Share them in the comments below. And if you want help from a pro, contact me. 

How to Change Your Hair Style

I’m all about instant gratification. Give me the choice between store-bought and homemade, and I will almost always go for the quick fix. My family calls it “Rathness” to want to get things done yesterday. Unfortunately, in my line of work, there aren’t always shortcuts. Obtaining a new wardrobe can take time, not to mention the tailoring that’s inevitably involved. One place where I can satisfy my Rathness, however, is with updating clients’ hairstyles. Call today for an appointment tomorrow, and boom, you’re well on your way to a new and improved you.

I get that the idea of changing your hairstyle can be intimidating, especially if you’ve been rocking the same look for several decades. But it's defeatist to assume that if you’re past a certain age it’s too late to make a change. So what if you’re 40 years old and have been wearing your hair the same way since you were a kid? That’s all the more reason to consider an update, especially if you (and your spouse/partner) think it looks stale. If you’re on this site, chances are you’re already thinking a change may be in order, and perhaps hair is part of it. To that I say, dive in, go for it. If you don’t like it, it will always grow back in a couple of weeks.That said, it’s key to go about your hairstyle upgrade thoughtfully so that you get your desired results. Below are 8 tips on how to do this.1) Ask others with hair you like for the name of their hair stylist. (A lot of people have a hard time asking questions like this, but it’s not a big deal. Just say that your barber is retiring, and you need someone new.)2) Check on a user-review site like Yelp in your area for a hairstylist who’s well-recommended for men’s scissor cuts (not clippers).3) When you call for an appointment, see if you can go in for a consultation first. That way you can discuss your goals in advance and ask how s/he would go about achieving them before breaking out the scissors.4) After you’ve found a stylist who’s the right fit, it’s imperative that you communicate clearly with him or her. Explain what your job is (including how conservative your look needs to be and what you typically wear to work), what image you’d like your new cut to convey, and how much maintenance you're OK with. If you're a chameleon and want something hip for outside of work, but conservative for everyday, tell the stylist. In many cases, all it takes is a subtle difference in how you fingercomb your hair when you get out of the shower to distinguish between looks.5) Part of clear communication is bringing with you at least three pictures of looks you like. Hair stylist James Hernandez of James Hernandez New York says, “Texture and density play a big part in determining the end result. But where the visuals help is in capturing the concept of the look you are after, both what you want to achieve and what you don’t want. Any stylist that is opposed to you using visuals, I would be little leery of their understanding of the craft of haircutting.” Stylist James Joyce agrees, “In the conversation before starting the service, the stylist can decide what element of the pictures you bring is grabbing your eye. Sometimes it’s the shape of the head, and sometimes it’s the texture of the hair.  Either way it’s a big help to have a non-verbal idea. Pictures can be printed off Google images or clipped from magazines.”6) Your hair will look best parted on one side vs. the other. So sometimes the change may just be switching the part (or losing it altogether). A good hair stylist will know where the best part placement will be.7) Facial hair correlates closely with your hairstyle. Talk to the hair stylist about what works best for your face shape and what suggestions, if any, he’d make to change your facial hair given your new cut. Also ask if he needs to trim your eyebrows. This takes 30 seconds, and he can do it with a pair of scissors (don't let anyone near you with wax).8) If you feel your look is dated, it may not just be your present cut, but also the product you’re using. I worked with a new client this week who thought that the “wet-look” gel he was using made him look more contemporary, when in fact it was conveying a look that was out of touch. For this reason, bring any product you use and have the hairstylist evaluate it. He may tell you to chuck it and give you a recommendation for something new. Make sure he also shows you how to apply it. You may feel silly doing this, but trust me the next morning when you’re trying to get out the door quickly, you’ll be happy you know what you’re doing._______________________________________________________________________________Are you thinking of making a change to your hairstyle? Leave me a note in the comments below. I'd love to hear how it goes for you.

For Love of Linen

Want to do something nice for yourself this summer? Love yourself up by adding linen to your wardrobe. Men are relatively limited in their options for staying breezy on blazing hot summer days, but as I’ve mentioned before, linen is a hot weather essential due to its lightweight and breathable qualities. The reason it can keep you comfortable is that the cloth absorbs up to 20% moisture without feeling wet.You can buy linen either off-the-rack or through a custom clothier (if you’re a R&Co. client, you know how crazy I am for custom). Check out these fabric swatches below for some linen sportcoats I recently ordered for two clients.

Fabrics can made solely of linen as with the shirt below from Hartford, or they can be blended with other fabrics for a more refined look. The fabrics for the sportcoats above are combined with cashmere and silk, which makes them drape beautifully. We'll pair them with everything from jeans and a henley or v-neck t-shirt to dress pants and a dress shirt and pocket square.Ninja stylist tip for staying cool: if you custom order a linen (or any summer fabric for that matter) sportcoat or suit, ask for it to have no lining or a quarter lining. This works wonders.

I know, linen wrinkles. If this really bothers you, give it a shot and see if you can get beyond it. Embrace the imperfection. Would you rather be drenched in sweat or easy-breezy with a few creases in your clothes?

Aside from the obvious: linen shirts, suits, sportcoats, and shorts, you can also look for vests made of linen, like the one above from J. Crew. Vests are an ideal warm-weather solution for getting the level of formality inherent to having an added layer over your dress shirt, without the extra weight of a sportcoat or suit jacket.

For casual social occasions, or if your office isn't dressy, consider wearing a linen tie like the one above from Pierrepont Hicks. It's seasonally appropriate and has the added bonus of keeping your neck much cooler than a heavier silk would.

Other linen accessories you can work in your summer repertoire include pocket squares and shoes (above left and right). While they won't necessarily keep temperatures down, you will certainly look cool in them!How do you plan on wearing linen this summer?

Do You Wish You Got More Sleep?

Sounds good, right? With some foresight and planning, you can save valuable time in the morning so you can have that extra 10 minutes in bed. Read on for 13 tips on getting out the door quickly, efficiently, and of course stylishly.1) Lay your clothes out the night before. We learned this back in grade school, but at some point along the way we stopped doing it. If you have the space, get a wardrobe valet to keep things neat and visible as you make your selections. It also helps to check the weather so you can decide on what shoes and outerwear you’ll need.2) Maintain an organized closet so that you can find everything you need the moment you need it. For my tips on how purge your closet, click here.3) Once you’ve cleared out the things you don’t need, keep your clothing organized by type (suits with suits, blazers with blazers, shirts with shirts, etc.), then by color within each type. Again, it’s all about easy access.4) If you don’t have heavy beard growth, shave the night before. This also reduces irritation.5) Put your keys on top of anything you need to bring with you, like the Netflix envelope you’ve been meaning to mail for the past few days.6) Keep all the things you know you'll need right before you walk out the door in one handy place, for example in a basket in your closet, or in a hallway drawer. This might include a lint-brush, hair product, glasses, sunglasses, change for coffee/the paper, mobile device, wallet, office security badge, transit pass.7) If you find yourself always hitting the snooze button and running behind as a result, put your clock across the room from your bed so you have to get up to turn it off. If you’re notorious for bagging your morning workout, put your sneakers on top of your alarm clock for extra motivation – again, on the other side of the room from your bed.8) Create an upbeat playlist to keep time as you get ready – the first song for your shower, the second for getting dressed, the third for breakfast, and the fourth for finishing touches and walking out the door.9) Set up your coffee machine or the blender with your smoothie ingredients the night before.10) When you get home at the end of the day, put everything back where it belongs (that way you aren’t going crazy looking for your tan belt the next day).And here are three terrific bonus tips from my friend and client Tony Martignetti:11) Have 2 or 3 combinations that you know with certainty are perfect for different occasions: casual, biz casual and Wall Street. You can go to these quickly when there isn't time to be creative and thoughtful. [Rath & Co. note: your stylist can create a pictorial wardrobe layout or a spreadsheet listing these combinations for easy reference.]12) Get your shirts washed and pressed before you need them. Always have plenty of clean shirts to choose from.13) Know which shoes go with which belts. As you're putting on the belt, you envision the shoes.Thanks to Tony for his additions. (For more of Tony and a few laughs, check out these video style tutorials Tony and I shot: on mixing high and low in menswear here, and on how the perfect leather jacket should fit here.)How do you save time in the morning? Feel free to share your tips below.

Jean-eology: How to Find Flattering Jeans

Having good jeans is not hereditary or otherwise beyond your control. But it does take know-how and patience. The wrong jeans can send the wrong message entirely. So this is one you want to get right. Read on for the definitive Rath & Co. guide to shopping for denim.

The Most Flattering Style

Just about everyone looks good in a pair of inky blue, straight-leg jeans. This is the first basic pair that I recommend everyone should have. It’s timeless.

The Best Style for Your Build

What does the perfect pair of jeans look like? Well, that depends on your physical proportions.

• If you're of average build, good styles for you include RRL Straight Leg, 7 Standard Classic Straight Leg, J Brand Kane or Citizens of Humanity Sid.
• If you’re slim, try 7 Jeans Slimmy. Don’t let the name freak you out – these aren’t skinny jeans. The Slimmy’s are cut straight, without a lot of excess room in the leg and with a slight taper toward the ankle. I’ve had many conservative clients love the fit of these. Billy Reid's Slim Jean is another good choice.
• If your thighs are built, try Joe's Straight Leg Classic or AG The Protégé.
• If your waist size is larger than your inseam and/or you need more room overall, check out 7 Jeans’ Austyn cut. Sometimes loose cuts (of anything, really) can make you look larger than you actually are, but these give you room to breathe while still looking flattering.
• If your rise is low (this is the distance between your waist and the bottom of your crotch), Hudson’s Byron cut is an excellent option.

Note: Aside from cuts, there's a huge variety of pocket styles among different types of denim. This is an important factor because you want to make sure that the rear pockets are not too long for your seat. For example, I’ve found that with clients 5’ 8” and under, the pockets on the 7 Standard Classic jeans are too long and end up making the client look misproportioned.

Washes and Colors

Once you’ve got the dressier dark blue rinse, you'll want to get a more casual rinse that’s a little lighter in color (see above). These are for weekend afternoons and low-key trips to your favorite watering hole. Another easy way to add versatility to your denim wardrobe is to introduce colors aside from blue. I’m a big fan of grey, white, off-white (the latter two especially good for warm weather; see above) and other interesting shades like red. If this appeals to you, check out Rag & Bone for an array of unique washes which change each season. Last Fall, I styled a client in a pair of burgundy AG’s and orange suede Louis Vuitton driving loafers. It was a very cool look! Note that if you go with white (a bold, confident choice), make sure you keep them spotless.

Savvy Shopping Tips

• Unless you’re buying selvedge denim (a thicker, stiffer type of Japanese denim), most jeans will slacken up to one size as you wear them. So it’s good if they're a little snug when you buy them.
• Sizing varies from brand to brand. If you’re 34 in one brand, you may be 33 in another.
• Always check out your rear view in a three-way mirror when trying on jeans. What looks like a party in the front may be droopy drawers in the back. And make sure to wear a belt when trying on – this will help indicate what fits and what doesn’t. Your jeans are too big if your belt hikes your belt loops up toward your seat, or if you have crimping anywhere along the waist.
• Set aside a chunk of time and try on as many pairs as you can. A few times a client and I had thought we’d found The Right Pair, only to try on one more style and find one that's even better. It pays to spend a little time doing this.

Tailoring

• Once you’ve found jeans that turn heads, you may need to have them tailored. If they need hemming, make sure you bring with you to the tailor whatever shoes you’ll be wearing most frequently with them.
• Ask your tailor to reattach the original bottom hem after shortening them (they don’t always offer this without your asking).
• If you’re having slim or straight-leg jeans hemmed, pay attention to where the tailor is going to cut them. Sometimes shortening jeans can compromise the desired slimness in the leg, so in order to maintain the integrity of the cut, you should have them tapered slightly toward the ankle as well.

Side note: if you like the look of cuffed jeans (see "Washes and Colors" above), you can skip the hemming and roll 1.5" cuffs.

To Be Avoided at All Costs

 Not to be dramatic, but please don’t be caught dead in any of the following jean-related offenses: heavily contrasting stitching, (No), obnoxiously-patterned pockets (Double No), very pronounced whiskering or distressing (feels artificial and is not slimming), boot cuts (save it for the cowboys), or black jeans (this worked for the "November Rain" video but little else).

Take Care

Wash your jeans inside out to maintain the color.

Pricetag

In general, you get what you pay for with jeans – up to a certain point. A $50 pair of jeans from Uniqlo is a good option if you’re watching your budget, but know that they won’t last as long as a pair of Citizens, for example, that cost $175. Do the math: in some instances, it makes more sense to invest in quality up front rather than have to replace inexpensive jeans every year. All of that said, I have a client who had been talked into buying several pairs of $1K plus Louis Vuitton denim by an overzealous salesperson before he started shopping with me. Perhaps you cannot put a price on that which makes your butt look good, but really, it’s not necessary to spend more than $250-$275 to get a solid pair of jeans. Once I started shopping for that client, I found him a whole slew of denim that cost less than ¼ of what he had spent previously – and he liked them better than the super-pricey ones.

The Canadian Tuxedo…?

 Ever wonder if you’re cool enough to rock the jean-on-jean look? Well, you are! You just need to know how to do it. The key to wearing jeans on bottom with jeans on top is to make sure each item is a distinctly different wash from the other. A fail-safe way to do this is to combine a light rinse denim top with a dark, selvedge jean. A light rinse denim top also looks clean and crispy with white jeans.I know all of this may sound complicated, but trust me, putting a little effort into your jean shopping will go a long way. If you'd like tailored help with achieving denim excellence, contact me.Cheers,Julie

Product Review: Tommy John Undershirt

Do you have Excess Fabric Gut? What about Bacon Neck? I was fitting a client recently for dress shirts and suits, and I noticed extra undershirt fabric around his middle that was interfering with the flattering fit of his clothing. Underwear lays the foundation for your appearance, so getting your undershirts right is key to a sharp, fitted look.As menswear has evolved to be more fitted, it no longer makes sense to wear outdated boxy undershirts. Tom Patterson, founder of Tommy John undergarments, was kind enough to send me samples of his Second Skin Deep Vneck Stay Tucked Undershirt (below) for one of my clients to test out in the hopes of eliminating this problem. Here's the feedback my client gave.

-He found them very comfortable and reported that they held their cling even after several washes. "I actually ordered more undershirts and some underwear to try, so I guess I'm a convert."

-The undershirts are so soft and elastic that he had a hard time folding them, but that's obviously a lot less important than how they function when worn. This sounds to me like the perfect men's undergarment -- they feel great, and you couldn't even fold them if you tried.

-The V-neck was the perfect depth so he wouldn't have to worry about his t-shirt showing beneath his button-up.

-One of them did shed quite a lot after 1 or 2 washings, but after that he had no problems.

Thanks to Tom for the samples -- and for creating this much-needed product. You can check out Tommy John here.

"Before and After" Decoded

Have you seen my latest before and afters? I just added several updated sets to my new website. The before and after section is the most visited part of my site, so this week I’m lifting the hood to show you how it came together for my client in the images above: John Bailey. John is a Management Consultant, and he was looking to create a more appealing image for speaking and presentations. Here's how he described what he wanted to accomplish:“Take the package that is me - height, build, bone-structure, baldness and all - and create an image that says 'authority, approachable'".John is located in Oregon, so we did all our work via Skype and email. Here's how it went down:ColorThe black and silver color combo is too aggressive for business. In addition, because John’s head is bare, the black shirt is overly intense and stark on him – almost making him look like a floating head. Overall, he was coming off too strong in his before look. In contrast, the lavender shirt is more flattering, and in combination with the sportcoat, it’s friendly but authoritative.ProportionJohn is 5’ 8” and slightly stocky, so a main goal was to make him look longer and leaner. The diagonal lines of his sportcoat’s opening “V” are slimming and elongating, and pull him in at the waist. Paired with dark jeans, the jacket creates an overall monochromatic look that also makes him look taller and thinner. We had his jacket cut on the short side to make his legs appear longer.DetailThe peak lapel on John’s jacket draws the eye up toward his broad shoulders and his face in a flattering way. He looks sharp but approachable with his open collar.HairJohn had already ditched the moustache pre-Rath. Good call, John! The shaved head is a confident look (studies have been done on this – here’s a great article on the topic). Making the move from contacts to glasses made sense, as it adds dimension to his face so that he doesn't look so bare.With no head or facial hair, John’s look was vulnerable. He was attempting to strengthen that, but he was doing it in the wrong way. The end result was “trying too hard.” John says, "Men hate to ask for directions - and I think even more so about their appearance. It's an admission of helplessness - and perhaps seems a bit vain as well. I think that holds lots of guys back from success ... [Now] when I present professionally, the difference in how I feel – and therefore, how I carry myself – and the depth of the confidence I can project – is very significant."You can read more about John's work here. A very warm thank you to him for participating in this article!

Five Genius Valentine's Day Date Ideas

Today's article is courtesy of the queen of romantic planning, Sarah Pease, The Proposal Planner (TM). Whether she's taking over the flight deck of the Intrepid for an epic proposal, or organizing the perfect picnic in Central Park, Sarah knows what's what when it comes to making romance happen.For some, Valentine's Day is the most romantic day of the year filled with love, red roses and candlelit dinners.  For others, it's a commercialized, manufactured holiday rife with cheesy teddy bears, silk boxer shorts and exorbitantly priced prix fixe menus.  Regardless of your opinion, it's a great excuse for organizing a fun date with your loved one (even if it's just your most-loved friend!).  Here are five of my favorite ideas for Valentine's Day:1) For the Wallet-Conscious: Create your own wine tasting.  With a little research done online or with your local wine shop, select 2 reds and 2 whites and pair them with cheeses or chocolates.  Using a scarf from your closet, conduct an official blind tasting by candlelight.  Not only will you expand your knowledge of wines, but you'll also enjoy the flirty part of blindfolding each other!  Budget not an issue?  Hire a sommelier to do a private tasting!2) Starry Night: Research the hours at your local planetarium or night-sky observatory and arrange to have a private tour.  Whether you're strapped into an IMAX seat watching the latest space-themed movie, or gazing at real stars in other galaxies, you'll be in a romantic mood under all those stars.3) Love is all Around: Plan an entire evening around love. Meet your sweetheart at the Museum of Sex near the Flatiron Building - who says a museum can't be fun? Once you've explored all the newest exhibits, head to your favorite cocktail bar to sip on the cocktails she loves.  From there, treat her to her guilty-pleasure food - is it cheesy biscuits from Red Lobster?  Coconut Invasion cake from Asia de Cuba?  Tonight is the night to indulge.  End the evening by sharing three reasons why you love each other.4) Futuristic Love:  Want to know what the universe has in store for you?  Do a psychic reading together!  Make an appointment or stop in to see what the crystal ball or tarot cards say.  If you really want to tempt fate, try a few different fortune tellers to see if their predictions overlap.5) Ice Skating and Hot Chocolate:  Strap on your skates and join the crowds for a lively spin around the ice rink.  If you're in New York, you can blend in with the tourists in Central Park, Rockefeller Center or Bryant Park, or discover some of the smaller rinks around the city.  Reward all of your activity with a cab ride to City Bakery and test out the "drinkable chocolate" of the day. Got a sweet tooth? Plan to come back every other day for the rest of their Hot Chocolate Festival which runs the entire month of February. That way you can try a new flavor every night.Many thanks to Sarah for sharing her fantastic ideas. For more info on Sarah, check out her website. And now that you've got the best date ever planned, read here for what to wear.

How to Shape Up Your Closet

Do you avoid opening your closet door because you're afraid a tennis racquet is going to fall out on your head? Sporting goods aside, it's always nice to have a workable closet. Much of my client work is helping people to streamline and edit their wardrobes; trust me, I’ve seen it all in there…everything from bike pumps and paint cans to women's unmentionables. And that's all I'll say about that! So don't worry; no one is beyond help when it comes to getting a closet in shape.Here I am on a recent closet session checking out my client's go-to navy suit.

When your wardrobe contains only items you actually wear, it allows you to get your day started faster so that you can focus on what you do best – instead of worrying about where the pants to your gray pinstripe suit are. The first step to creating a closet that works for you is to set aside a couple of hours for a closet clearing. Below are 7 questions to ask yourself when considering each item:1. Is it in good condition? 2. Is it out of style or do you not like the style? 3. Is it relevant to your lifestyle? 4. Does the color look good on you? (to find out what colors look best on you, contact me). 5. Does it fit? 6. Have you worn it in the past year and a half? 7. Do you actually like it?If the answer to 2 or more of these is "no," then you can do better, and I'd recommend donating it. And if you’re too busy or don’t have the patience to do this yourself, call in a professional who can get the job done for you quickly and efficiently.Here's to starting 2013 with a functional closet that suits your needs.Cheers,Julie

Reader Question: Thick Classic Sweaters

 Question:Hi Julie,Happy holiday season! I hope Black Friday/Cyber Monday treated you well. I'm hoping you might be able to help me out with your amazing knowledge of the menswear market. I bought my husband Stephen a sweater at Mulberry (see photo attached) about 5 years ago (or maybe 6? or 7?) and he has loved the thing to death. It definitely needs to be replaced but I haven't found anything else like it (Mulberry doesn't do men's anymore). It's really really thick and has a high-ish collar and he raves about how warm it is. Do you know where I could find one like it? Are there any men's luxury brands known for doing really thick classic sweaters? Thank you for any guidance you can offer!-JennyAnswer:Hi Jenny,Thanks for your email and flattering words! It's funny, I just got a client a similar sweater (in navy) at Barney's today -- from Shipley & Halmos. They do really nice heavy knits that look great on. Also, check out this sweater from Billy Reid, and this one from Ami Alexandre Mattiussi. Let me know how it goes!Cheers,Julie 

Glasses: Not Just for Nerds Anymore

It used to be that sporting glasses was reserved for nerds like Lewis and Gilbert above. There was a stigma attached to it, so the people who did wear them only did so because they absolutely had to, and/or because they didn't really care that much about their appearance.But over the course of the past decade, all that has changed. There are tons of options for stylish frames, and glasses are now used as a tool for expressing one's personal style. Check out heartthrob Jon Hamm in a classic black frame below. The look is clean, confident and smart.If you're thinking about updating your look, glasses are a fantastically handy way to do so. Read on for my tips on choosing a pair of frames. And by the way, if you don't need glasses, don't feel left out. Plenty of people sport specs sans prescriptions.SHAPE1) Angular-shaped glasses read as authoritative, while glasses with rounded shapes make you look approachable.2) There's a lot of information out there about what shape faces should wear what shape glasses. To me, it's less about rules and more about choice. If you wear the same shape glasses as that of your face, you'll reinforce that face shape; if you wear the opposite shape, it will balance your face shape. So there's no "bad" or "good" here. Rather, it's what you choose to play up. As a specific example, if you have a round face and want to look tougher and more commanding, I recommend wearing glasses that are squared off. Luxottica CEO Andrea (above) is doing just that.3) The sides of your glasses should end between the corners of your eyes and the sides of your face. (However, if you have a long and narrow face and want to balance that, look for shapes that extend slightly beyond your temples so as to create width in your face. Also, people with long and narrow faces should avoid very small frames.) COLOR AND MATERIAL4) A very dark frame can make a strong, dramatic statement (it's also trendy). If this is what you're going for, be careful that the dark frame doesn't overwhelm your own coloring. Check out the guy on the left above -- his own coloring and features stand up to the heavy frames. In comparison, the dark frames on the right dominate Brad Pitt's facial features. On him, you see the frames first before you see his face.5) Choose a color or type of metal that works with your own coloring. If your skin tone is warm, go with warm-colored frames; if it's cool, go with cool-colored frames. Hint: if you have grey hair, a silver frame can play off of that nicely.6) Metal frames have a more modern and dressy feel, and plastic reads more casual. Tortoise frames have a preppy and collegiate vibe.7) Avoid transition lenses, as they often end up in an unflattering middle-ground of lens color -- not quite dark enough to be sunglasses and distractingly shaded for when out of UV-light. They also don't darken inside vehicles, so they don't work as driving glasses.DETAIL8) If you have a broad nose or wide-set eyes, go with frames that have a darker nose piece or bridge, as this will make your nose look smaller and bring your eyes closer together visually. A light nose piece will "open up" the space between close-set eyes and make them appear farther apart.9) Think about whether you want a logo on the side or not. I often find that the more heavy-handed logos can cheapen a look. One brand that I love for its subtlety is Persol (see above) -- its logo doesn't say the brand name anywhere. It's just a classy-looking design.PROPORTION10) The lenses should leave just the right amount of space around your eyes: not so much that they're out of proportion to your features, but not so little that they crowd (and therefore diminish) your eyes.FIT AND FEEL11) When you try on frames, think about how they feel physically. Are they comfortable? This is important, as they'll be hanging out on your face all day.12) Be careful not to get frames that are so heavy that you're constantly pushing them back up your nose.When you're shopping for glasses, find a store where they take pictures of you in the different contenders that you can look at on a screen side by side. You can also bring a camera and compare photos yourself. Glasses are an opportunity for you to show some personality. So take your time and have fun choosing a pair that works for you and that helps create your own individual look. And of course once you find a pair you love, you can start expanding your collection so that you have different glasses for different occasions.Do you have a favorite pair of glasses? If so, what do you love about them?

No-Brainer Shirt and Pants Combinations

With business casual all the rage in many offices, the pairing of dress shirts and pants is a hot topic. In some ways, this is actually easier than putting together an outfit where you're considering suit (or blazer and pants), shirt, tie, and sometimes pocket square patterns. But still, based on empirical data (a.k.a. what I see when hanging out in clients' closets), a lot of people get it wrong. Below are 7 quick and easy points to keep in mind when selecting a business-casual dress shirt and pants combo.1) Avoid wearing striped pants with just your dress shirt. This tends to look a little "off," like you broke your striped suit apart and wore just the pants themselves.2) If you broke rule #1 and are wearing striped pants with just a dress shirt, don't worry I won't hunt you down. Just promise me that your dress shirt isn't striped too. 3) If your pants have a pattern (plaid, windowpane, check, etc.), go with a solid shirt, and vice versa. Otherwise you border on looking clownish. Some fabrics are "tone-on-tone," which means they have a subtle pattern to their weave, like a herringbone, but are still all one color. Fabrics like that read as solids and are perfectly fine to wear with patterns. See above how, viewed closely, there appears to be a pattern in the shirt, but overall it reads as a solid. 4) If you're very tall, you may want to break up your height by choosing pant and shirt colors that contrast one another, creating a horizontal line at your waist (see above left). On the flip, if you want to look taller, choose combinations where the colors are more similar in depth and intensity so as to create one long line top-to-bottom (above right).5) White goes with everything. In fact, the white dress shirt is a wardrobe cornerstone -- about as important as, say, a belt or a navy blazer. It comes in especially handy on the inevitable running-late mornings when you need to grab-and-go.6) A contrast collar shirt is mostly worn with a suit for a Wall Street-y look. But if you're going to wear it with just dress pants, opt for pants in a dark hue.7) For specific color recommendations, I like brown pants with pink, light blue, ecru and yellow shirts. And gray pants provide a solid anchor to brightly colored or boldly patterned shirts.Do you have trouble pairing dress shirts and pants? Leave me a comment or question below. I'd love to hear what's on your mind.Images via Mr. Porter and Bonobos.

How to Define Your Personal Style

Do you ever get so sick of your wardrobe that you want to toss the whole thing out the window? I often hear that sentiment from new clients – they’re tired of wearing the same boring blue shirt and khakis every day. I don’t blame them. If you don’t work at Blockbuster, why dress like it? If you’re in this kind of rut, now's as good a time as ever to define a new personal style. Below are eight tips on how to do that:1) Look for inspiration from celebrities, magazines and style blogs. Earmark looks or parts of looks that you want to try.2) Try elements of what you like and ask a friend whose opinion you value and who you know will be honest.3) Incorporate elements of your personality into your style. Love your Vespa? Wear a pair of cufflinks that pays homage to it. Integrating features of your unique personality into your look will help you feel more comfortable in your own skin – and make it more likely that you’ll actually wear your new items.4) Go ground up. The easiest, most pain-free first step in a style redo is new footwear – mostly because there's no tailoring involved, so you can literally walk out of the store in them. There’s something about a great pair of shoes that makes you stand straighter and walk with more swagger.5) Make sure the new look you select works for your body type. How to tell? Check out your overall silhouette in the mirror. Many of us home in on a certain part of our bodies when checking ourselves out. Try a more macro approach and see yourself as a larger whole. If the overall shape appeals to you, you'll know it’s flattering.6) If you’re nervous to try something new, make like Gavin and take it for a test drive to the grocery store. See how you feel when you’re there. No one has to know you’re just going to the supermarket!7) Try a little at a time. I’ve seen too many closets full of one particular style that the client went whole hog on without realizing that it wasn’t right for him (Western shirts, I’m looking at you!). So pick one to start. If you find yourself going to that item again and again, you're ready to commit to getting more.8) Be patient and open-minded when you look at yourself in the mirror. Your eye is used to seeing you dressed in one specific way. The new look might be jarring and take some getting used to – like a new haircut.Defining your own personal style takes some work, but it's definitely worth it. Try the steps above, and let me know in the comments how you do. And if you'd like more tailored help with ramping up your look, contact me.

On Avoiding Polo Shirt Monotony

The polo shirt has been unfairly accused of looking boring, most notably in the summertime. The key to avoiding a polo snoozefest is, rather than having the same exact shirt in every color it comes in, finding a variety of styles and details that suit you depending on the occasion. There are loads of options to choose from: colored stitching to make it casual, or a contrast collar for pop, to name just two. Below are some of my favs for this season in 6 different styles.1. Supersoft CasualThe small pocket, long placket, and contrast stitching (especially the unexpected diagonal lines to the right of the pocket) combine nicely to give this polo a laid back feel. I've gotten this specific top for a few clients, and they've all remarked on how soft and comfortable the fabric is. Billy Reid, $88. 2. Sporty StripeA polo that has horizontal lines across the upper half is excellent if you want to look broader through your chest and arms. I particularly like the fresh color combo on this one. Gant by Michael Bastian, $135. 3. Interesting DetailsThe marled cotton and button-free placket give this shirt a understated-cool and even beachy vibe. It would look great with white jeans or rolled up chinos. Orlebar Brown, $119. 4. Button-Down CollarThe good thing about a button-down collar is that the collar stands at attention and frames your face nicely. Brooks Brothers Black Fleece, $150.FIT NOTE 1: This model's sleeves are too long. The correct (and most flattering) sleeve length should be about halfway between your bicep and your elbow. Your tailor can shorten it if necessary.5. DressyA polo shirt is inherently casual and therefore should be untucked most of the time. This one is on the dressier side with its smooth fabric and slight sheen, so I'm ok with it being tucked in. Ralph Lauren Purple Label, $295. FIT NOTE 2: When worn untucked, the bottom hem of a polo shirt should hit just below your waistline. If it's any longer than that, you should get it shortened. 6. Quirky Print I like how this polo is offbeat in its pattern but understated in its color palette. Keep the look low-key by wearing it with dark grey jeans, or flashy fellows can rock it a pair of red cotton chinos. YMC, $70.How about you? What are your favorite options from above, and how do you like to mix up your polos?

Successful Spring Layering: How to Roll in Like a Lion (or Lamb)

Happy (almost) Spring! Of course, one day's sunny and sixty-five could be another day's stormy and forty, so don't forget to dress strategically. The key to successful Spring dressing is layers. Below are five tips on how to layer for everything from lion to lamb, along with my top picks for Spring layering pieces.1) Wear thin combinations of layers, like a fine cashmere sweater, a Spring jacket, or a lightweight t-shirt. The more thin layers you wear, the more you can adjust to your comfort.2) Consider the vest. From down to leather to suiting fabric, there's a vest for every occasion. And remember, with a down vest, you can wear it over or under your suit/blazer.3) Just because you're not wearing your puffer doesn't mean you can't wear gloves and a scarf. I love the cool, nonchalant look of winter accessories on their own, without a heavy winter jacket.4) For days where it's too cold to wear your lightweight jacket but too warm to wear your heavy one, wear two lightweight jackets. Try a denim jacket beneath a one that's cotton-twill or nylon.5) This is pretty intuitive, but typically the easiest and most visually pleasing way to layer is to wear the lightest weight layer closest to your body, going thicker as you move away from it.And here are just a few of my Spring layering picks...

Lightweight Jacket

Belstaff Gangster Waxed Cotton Jacket ($645): I admit, one of the main reasons this jacket caught my eye is its name (but let's be real, can anything from Mr Porter truly be categorized as "gangster"?). Name aside, it has a great trim fit, and waxed cotton is a good way to get the look of leather without the pricetag.

Vest

Rag & Bone Milano Waistcoat ($255): This vest is is a nice piece because even though it's a sweater, it doesn't fall into the trap of looking frumpy (which sometimes can happen with open sweaters like cardigans and vests). The buttons, pockets and triangle-opening at the bottom give it a pulled-together, suiting feel.

Lightweight Scarf

Yigal Azrouel Tonal Colorblock Scarf ($135): Throwing on a lightweight scarf like this one is an easy way to cut the chill without risk of overheating once you go inside.For more specific Spring outfit ideas, click here. And if you'd like more tailored help with your Spring wardrobe, contact me.

New Dads: Keeping Stylish While Keeping Your Cool

This article originally appeared on the Deposit a Gift blog.

 

There’s lots of advice around on how new moms can keep it together fashion-wise after a little one arrives on scene. As a men’s Image and Style Consultant perhaps I’m biased, but sometimes new dads have just as much trouble maintaining a fresh sense of style. The keys are to keep it straightforward and functional, and below are six tips on how new dads can do just that.

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Masculine Baby AccessoriesThe heading may sound like an oxymoron, but there’s a whole industry catering to hip dads who don’t want to carry around flowered diaper bags. Companies like Diaper Dude and Storksak design bags with these dads in mind: they come in solid dark colors like carbon grey and army green, not to mention in brown and black leather.

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Stylish FunctionalityIt’s no secret that you need to tote a lot of gear when you have kids. Luckily for the fashion-conscious dad, slim cargo pants are currently on-trend, so these guys can stow some of what they’ll need in those pockets for easy access. I like this khaki pair from Lands’ End Canvas, the black camo’s from Rogue or J Brand’s vintage trooper cargo.

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Dark MatterThe first thing I usually hear from clients who are parents is how easy it is for clothes to get ruined from drips, drools and worse. With this in mind, new dads should look for machine washable clothes in forgiving dark colors.

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Know Your FabricsStyle-savvy dads can further protect their clothes by wearing stain-resistant fabrics. A company called Nano-Tex has engineered an incredible fabric called Nano-Care Stressfree that literally repels stains; brands like Gap, Levi’s and Eddie Bauer sell clothing made with this technology. New dads can also protect themselves from looking worn out by wearing fabrics that look better when a little wrinkled. Think chambray, linen or flannel shirts and washed cotton chinos from inexpensive stores like Uniqlo.

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Basic GroomingIt can be easy to get lax about haircuts, hair trimming and shaving once the little one shows up, but part of looking good is maintaining these elements of style. Many hair stylists make house calls, making it easy to fit cuts into your busy schedule.

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Stay OrganizedWhen you’re sleep-deprived, you won’t want to contend with a messy, confusing closet. Clean and organize your closet regularly so you can get dressed quickly. And if you need help, call in a professional.

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Most importantly for new dads: Have a clear game plan at the outset. There’s no need to descend to a dad jeans + hoodie combo when you can just as easily put on a casual sport coat and well-fitted jeans – even if you’re just heading to the park. I hope the above tips help, and I welcome your questions and comments!

Video Blog: Mixing High and Low in Menswear

In today's video blog, my friend, client and style comrade, Tony Martignetti and I demonstrate how to mix high and low in menswear. We hear about this a lot in relation to women's style but not as much for men. The idea is to be strategic about your clothing budget, putting your money toward classic pieces that will stand the test of time, and looking to fast fashion stores like Urban Outfitters, American Apparel, Uniqlo and H&M for trendier items. Tony's custom shirt is from Cego ($125), and his chinos ($58) are from American Apparel. What do you think? How do you mix high + low?Tony is the founder of Martignetti Planned Giving Advisors. Tweet him here and check out his weekly radio show here

To Tuck or Not to Tuck: Wearing Boots

One of the first things women notice on men is their shoes. No, really. Below I take you through the main categories of boots and explain what to wear with each and address the tuck-or-not question. (Hint: it has nothing to do with whether or not you have nice ankles.) The Work Boot – Utilitarian and rugged in feel, but handsome nonetheless, the work boot is best worn casually. It’s often water-resistant with a warm lining and therefore great for negotiating snow drifts. And besides, if there’s any falling timber on the Upper East Side, you’ll be ready. Note: this boot looks better when it’s a little beat up.Tuck? Yep, especially when there’s a layer of slushy muck along the sidewalk. You might need to cuff your pants once or twice for this, and you can also try leaving your boots untied or loosely tied (depending on how long your laces are – you don’t want them dragging through black puddles) and pushing your pants easily into the tops. Don’t worry about making sure each pant leg looks exactly the same. It should be a little undone. The Chukka – Originally worn by polo players (the name is derived from the word chukker, the playing period of a polo game), the Chukka is now worn by all men, regardless of whether they carry a mallet. This low-style boot can be dressy or casual, dictated by the material it’s made from – usually suede or leather. Wear them with jeans, chinos, dress pants or a suit, depending on how refined the boot material is.Tuck? Never. The Lace-up Boot – These boots are your most versatile option and come in a range of heights. Pull them on with jeans and a leather jacket (make sure the shade of the jacket leather is the same as that of your boots). Or wear them with a suit for a sharp-dressy look that also keeps your ankles warm as you power across town during an arctic blast.The lace-up boot is a candidate for one of my favorite fashion moments: the nonchalant half-tuck. While you’re welcome to play it safe and wear your pants over your boots, why not show a little lace and let the bottoms of your chinos or jeans – cuffing or rolling optional – fall casually into the tops of your boots? Don’t make it too perfect. Note: if you’re feeling noncommittal (or are short on time), lace them halfway, then wrap the laces around the tops of your boots a couple of times and tie them, as in the image below.Tuck? See above. The Chelsea Boot – Formerly reserved for riding your scooter around London to visit your favorite Beatle, the Chelsea boot now gets a lot of airplay in mainstream menswear. This style is often characterized by an elasticized side panel that makes it easy to pull on and off – great for zipping through airports. Wear with dark jeans for a night out or with your suit for an effortlessly sleek look.Tuck? Don’t even think about it.So that covers my general rundown on boots. For specific boot suggestions, please contact me directly. And, as always, I welcome your suggestions and comments.